School cafeterias satisfy more than students’ appetites
Food programs put in the legwork to source local ingredients, accommodate sensitivities and turn meal times into teachable moments
What children put in their bodies is increasingly becoming as important as what they put in their minds.
As Forbes pointed out last year, citing everything from popular Instagram accounts to widespread farm-to-table movements: “what we eat and how we eat it is celebrated like never before.” Foodie culture isn’t niche — it’s officially mainstream.
At Havergal College, an allgirls independent school in Toronto, food service director Rauni Whiteley says eating local is an important part of her nutrition program. One of Havergal’s suppliers helps connect the school with farmers, and she says this relationship to their food is part of the school’s philosophy.
“A great example of that would be our beef program; it comes from a farm in Simcoe County,” Whiteley says. “I’ve met the farmer, so has the chef, we’ve been out and toured the farm — it’s local, it’s grass-fed, it’s antibiotic-free, hormone-free, and we really feel it’s the best product.
“So that really steers the process for us — the idea that we’re supporting local farmers and we’re getting the best possible ingredients.”
Havergal girls, Whiteley adds, have learned how this attitude toward food can impact communities and local economies.
“I actually speak with our business classes — every year I do a small presentation for them where we talk about ethical purchasing, and the idea of the triple bottom line,” she says. “So we really try to … tie it in to some of the things they’re studying in class.”
At Crescent School, an allboys independent school in Toronto, even the changing seasons offer a learning opportunity in nutrition. Lawrence Mitchell, executive chef and director of food and beverage, says when fresh, seasonal produce is less inspiring in the winter, the boys learn to grown their own. “We showed them that you can grow sprouts at home, so we offered them a kit with instructions,” he says. “And with the pea sprouts, we introduced the pea sprout salad —and we gave them prizes based on their success.”
Introducing new, adventurous ingredients is an important part of the menu rotation, Mitchell says — it encourages Crescent students to experiment and learn. Gina Kay, executive director of student services at Crescent, notes how this food philosophy has evolved from generations past.
“(It was) certainly not in the cafeteria when we were growing up,” she says. “Whether it’s pulses or grains or cruciferous vegetables, we focus on these kinds of (super foods) and it’s amazing how much we go through.”
Allergies and preferences
In the effort to feed large, diverse student populations, safety and accommodation becomes another crucial part of any food program’s operations.
“Providing delicious and nutritious food for hundreds of students each day is no mean feat,” says Michael Burke, the deputy head of citizenship and community engagement for Toronto French School (TFS) — Canada’s International School, a co-ed and bilingual independent school in Toronto.
“And schools today cater to an ever-increasing number of children who have allergies and sensitivities, or dietary restrictions due to religious or ethical considerations.”
TFS encourages regular feedback from families and students to ensure meals are both healthy and exciting for young eaters — but safety is crucial. The nut-free kitchen uses up- to-date information from parents on allergies and sensitivities, and all food is prepared fresh each morning. TFS’ food service avoids, whenever possible, using frozen or pre-packaged food.
At Havergal, dishes are prominently labelled with icons if they contain a common allergen — or if they’re vegetarian or vegan — allowing girls to navigate their sensitivities or preferences on their own. Most meals are made from scratch, allowing the kitchen more control of ingredients and preparation. And Havergal is also building new facilities to enhance its dining program, scheduled for completion in the 2019-2020 school year.
At Crescent School, Kay says allergies and intolerances are addressed with sensitivity and rigour, ensuring its students feel safe when they eat. Ingredients are listed on certain dishes, nurses and kitchen staff are in close contact with parents, and the premises are fully nut-free.
“Lawrence is very aware of which children have allergies and what their allergies are,” Kay says, “and we often will invite the families in to come and meet with him, and have a tour of the kitchen.”
Once safety is addressed, of course it’s important that students love what they eat. So which meals are hands-down favourites?
Whiteley says Havergal girls love mac’n’cheese the best. Taco Thursdays comes in a close second, she adds, boasting its “beautiful, fresh, hand-cut pico de gallo.”
Meanwhile, Crescent boys adore the butter chicken, Mitchell says, especially with a side of curried chickpea and basmati rice. And they’re not shy to tell their parents.
“(Parents have) actually made inquiries,” he says, “‘What can I do at home so they eat like they do at the school?’”