Toronto Star

Gene-edited food is almost here

Will consumers buy in or see tweaked products as GMOs in disguise?

- LAURAN NEERGAARD THE ASSOCIATED PRESS

The next generation of biotech food is headed for the grocery aisles, and first up may be salad dressings or granola bars made with soybean oil geneticall­y tweaked to be good for your heart.

By early next year, the first foods from plants or animals that had their DNA “edited” are expected to begin selling. It’s a different technology than today’s controvers­ial “geneticall­y modified” foods, more like faster breeding that promises to boost nutrition, spur crop growth and make farm animals hardier and fruits and vegetables last longer.

The U.S. National Academy of Sciences has declared gene editing one of the breakthrou­ghs needed to improve food production so the world can feed billions more people amid a changing climate. Yet government­s are wrestling with how to regulate this powerful new tool. And after years of confusion and rancour, will shoppers accept gene-edited foods or view them as GMOs in disguise?

“If the consumer sees the benefit, I think they’ll embrace the products and worry less about the technology,” said Dan Voytas, a University of Minnesota professor and chief science officer for Calyxt Inc., which edited soybeans to make the oil hearthealt­hy.

Researcher­s are pursuing more ambitious changes: Wheat with triple the usual fibre, or that’s low in gluten. Mushrooms that don’t brown, and better-producing tomatoes. Drought-tolerant corn, and rice that no longer absorbs soil pollution as it grows. Dairy cows that don’t need to undergo painful dehorning, and pigs immune to a dangerous virus that can sweep through herds.

Scientists even hope gene editing eventually could save species from being wiped out by devastatin­g diseases like citrus greening, a so far unstoppabl­e infection that’s destroying Florida’s famed oranges.

First they must find genes that could make a new generation of trees immune.

“If we can go in and edit the gene, change the DNA sequence ever so slightly by one or two letters, potentiall­y we’d have a way to defeat this disease,” said Fred Gmitter, a geneticist at the University of Florida Citrus Research and Education Center, as he examined diseased trees in a grove near Fort Meade, Fla. Geneticall­y modified or edited — what’s the difference? Farmers have long geneticall­y manipulate­d crops and animals by selectivel­y breeding to get offspring with certain traits. It’s time-consuming and can bring trade-offs. Modern tomatoes, for example, are larger than their pea-sized wild ancestor, but the generation­s of crossbreed­ing made them more fragile and altered nutrients.

GMOs, or geneticall­y modified organisms, are plants or animals that were mixed with another species’ DNA to introduce a specific trait — meaning they’re “transgenic.” Best known are corn and soybeans mixed with bacterial genes for built-in resistance to pests or weed killers.

Despite internatio­nal scientific consensus GMOs are safe to eat, some people remain wary and there is concern they could spur herbicide-resistant weeds.

Now gene-editing tools, with names like CRISPR and TALENs, promise to alter foods more precisely, and at less cost, without necessaril­y adding foreign DNA. Instead, they act like molecular scissors to alter the letters of an organism’s own genetic alphabet.

The technology can insert new DNA, but most products in developmen­t so far switch off a gene, according to University of Missouri professor Nicholas Kalaitzand­onakes.

Those new Calyxt soybeans? Voytas’ team inactivate­d two genes so the beans produce oil with no heart-damaging trans fat and that shares the famed health profile of olive oil without its distinct taste.

The hornless calves? Most dairy Holsteins grow horns that are removed for the safety of farmers and other cows. Recombinet­ics Inc. swapped part of the gene that makes dairy cows grow horns with the DNA instructio­ns from naturally hornless Angus beef cattle.

“Precision breeding,” is how animal geneticist Alison Van Eenennaam of the University of California, Davis, explains it. “This isn’t going to replace traditiona­l breeding,” but make it easier to add one more trait. Rules aren’t clear The U.S. Department of Agricultur­e says extra rules aren’t needed for “plants that could otherwise have been developed through traditiona­l breeding,” clearing the way for developmen­t of about two dozen geneedited crops so far.

In contrast, the U.S. Food and Drug Administra­tion in 2017 proposed tighter, druglike restrictio­ns on gene-edited animals. It promises guidance sometime next year on exactly how it will proceed.

Because of trade, internatio­nal regulation­s are “the most important factor in whether genome editing technologi­es are commercial­ized,” USDA’s Paul Spencer told a meeting of agricultur­e economists.

At the World Trade Organizati­on this month, the U.S. joined 12 nations including Canada, Australia, Argentina and Brazil in urging other countries to adopt internatio­nally consistent, science-based rules for gene-edited agricultur­e. Are these foods safe? The biggest concern is what are called off-target edits, unintended changes to DNA that could affect a crop’s nutritiona­l value or an animal’s health, said Jennifer Kuzma of the Genetic Engineerin­g and Society Center at North Carolina State University.

Scientists are looking for any signs of problems. Take the hornless calves munching in a UC-Davis field. One is female and once it begins producing milk, Van Eenennaam will test how similar that milk’s fat and protein compositio­n is to milk from unaltered cows.

“We’re kind of being overly cautious,” she said, noting that if eating beef from naturally hornless Angus cattle is fine, milk from edited Holsteins should be, too.

“If we can go in and edit the gene ... potentiall­y we’d have a way to defeat this disease.” FRED GMITTER GENETICIST

 ?? IVAN PISARENKO AFP/GETTY IMAGES ?? Researcher­s are pursuing ambitious changes in the production of food using gene editing: wheat with triple the usual fibre or that’s low in gluten, for example.
IVAN PISARENKO AFP/GETTY IMAGES Researcher­s are pursuing ambitious changes in the production of food using gene editing: wheat with triple the usual fibre or that’s low in gluten, for example.
 ?? SHUTTERSTO­CK ?? Mushrooms that don’t brown are among the foods geneticist­s are working to create with gene-editing tools.
SHUTTERSTO­CK Mushrooms that don’t brown are among the foods geneticist­s are working to create with gene-editing tools.

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