Cheap is bad and other myths debunked

With more wine myths out there than you can shake a corkscrew at, I thought I’d devote a column to debunking a few. Here are five fallacies you may have heard and why each one is dead wrong

Myth: Only drink red with cheese 2017 Era Sauvignon Blanc, IGT Sicily, Italy (LCBO 632307 $10.95 in stores and online)

The citrus and buttered toast appeal of wooded Chardonnay works beautifully with the pungent richness of Parmesan Reggiano. A marmalade-scented Sauternes is a great match for salty blue cheese. And a gently herbaceous Sauvignon Blanc pairs perfectly with a milky goat cheese, Gouda or fresh Burrata. To taste what I mean, pick up a bottle of this new General List item that offers outstanding value for money. The wine’s aromas of rubbed oregano lead to a dry, crisp but saturated wash of flavour. Lime zest and dried herb notes infuse the creamyvibrant core, creating a perfect foil for a wide range of mild cheeses. Score: 92

Myth: Wines under screw caps are inferior to those under cork 2016 Burrowing Owl Estate Bottled Chardonnay, VQA Okanagan Valley, British Columbia (Vintages 208694 $33.95 in stores and online)

Several countries have proven fine wines can be bottled under screw cap—including Canada. One such example is this stunning Chardonnay recently released in Ontario. It’s a rich, nutty expression that begins with discreet scents of cream, pounded nuts, and nougat before coating the palate languidly with generous but finelycontoured fruit laced with lemon oil, brazil nut and warm smoke. This full-bodied Chardonnay with taut inner poise is well worth the price. Score: 93

Myth: Serve white wine cold 2016 Maison Louis Latour Bourgogne Chardonnay, AC Burgundy, France (LCBO 55533 $21.95 in stores and online)

Since chilling masks flavour, a complex, well-balanced white wine should never be served straight from the fridge. The deep chill would hide much of the lovely complexity you’re paying for. A fine example would be this classic white from the Louis Latour, a respected producer and the largest owner and seller of Grand Cru wines in Burgundy. This elegant entrylevel bottle offers a silky-crisp attack that—when served not too cold—suggests wet stones, sea salt and grapefruit zest. Then, it tapers to a long marzipan finish. So for whites such as this, pull the bottle from the fridge about 20 minutes before serving. Score: 91

Myth: Uncork a bottle and set it aside to let it breathe 2014 Beronia Reserva, Rioja, Spain (Vintages Essential 50203 $21.95 in stores and online)

You may have heard of uncorking a wine a few hours or so before serving it. But truth is, merely uncorking a bottle only exposes the surface of the liquid in the bottle neck to air, so the amount of aeration is minimal. To aerate a wine you should decant it. Decanting is the act of pouring the wine from the bottle into another vessel—a jug, a decanter or another wine bottle will do—to let the wine open up. I decanted this smooth, sultry Spanish red recently, which helped reveal its best expression of stewed black fruit with tones of vanilla, warm wood and cherry-cola. Score: 95

Myth: Cheap wine is terrible NV Flipflop Wines “Left Coast” Cabernet Sauvignon, California (LCBO 494179 $9.95 in stores and online)

Having compared the bestselling wines in North America in my new book Good Better Best Wines, I assure you wine doesn’t have to be pricey to be delicious—but you do need to know which bottles to buy. Take for example this unpretentious Californian Cabernet from the “left coast”, an ironic play on Bordeaux’s left bank where some of the most expensive Cabernet in the world is grown. This sub-$10 gem tastes smooth, ripe, and full of fruit with jammy black cherry flavours laced with espresso, blackcurrant liqueur and bittersweet chocolate. Great value. Score 92+