Toronto Star

Updated classics with a TWIST

Three wintry staples get a new look

- KARON LIU FOOD WRITER

I make pretty much the same dishes every Christmas holiday — roasted turkey with dressing and gravy, a pasta dish and roasted vegetables. Since it’s just once a year, my family never seems to tire of them. This year, I decided to stretch my creativity and reinterpre­t some of the classics — pumpkin pie, latkes and the chocolate chip cookie.

Keeping the taste preference­s of my family and friends in mind, I maintained the characteri­stics that make the originals so beloved — the warm creaminess of pumpkin pie, the crispy outer layer of a fried latke and the chewiness of a chocolate chip cookie. From there, I added flavours that compliment or highlight what makes the original work.

Here are my three reimagined holiday favourites — Savoury Mini Pumpkin Pies, Sweet Potato Latkes With MisoApple Slaw and Tahini White Chocolate Chunk Cookies.

Tahini White Chocolate Chunk Cookies

Star Tested

Tahini adds a rich nutty flavour similar to peanut butter to baked treats without the added sugar. My coworkers couldn’t get enough of these cookies and kept asking if I was going to make any more. And if you think these are too sophistica­ted for kids, a group of Grade 9 students visiting for take your child to work day devoured these fresh baked cookies.

This recipe is a riff on the classic peanut butter and chocolate chip cookie, incorporat­ing cocoa powder for an earthy bitterness that brings out the tahini flavour. The sesame seeds emphasize the nutty flavour, while the mild white chocolate ensures the cocoa doesn’t overpower. Some recipe sites say tahini can be a straight-up substitute for butter but I found that butter gives these cookies a deeper chocolate colour and adds depth to the sweetness. The butterfree batches weren’t bad, but they tasted more like a sugar cookie and were a tan colour rather than dark brown.

Be sure to stir the tahini well before using as the oil and paste separate like natural peanut butter. I like the larger tahini tubs available in the Middle Eastern section of supermarke­ts (I used Alkanater). Grocers such as Arz or Adonis in Scarboroug­h have a wider selection. Smaller, artisan jars of tahini can be found in the health food section of more upscale grocers.

Letting the dough sit out for about 20 minutes after dividing it into cookies on the baking trays allows the surface of the cookies to slightly dry — key to getting that crackle look. You can get the same effect by rolling the balls of dough in sugar, which also dries out the cookies’ surface, but I think the cookies are sweet enough as they are.

Like all cookies, these are best fresh out of the oven as they tend to harden after two or three days. To prevent this, store in an airtight bag or container or plastic bag with a slice of bread, just as you would store brown sugar. Cookies can be frozen for up to three months. 2 cups (500 mL) all-purpose flour 1/2 cup (125 mL) cocoa powder 3/4 tsp (3 mL) baking soda 1/2 tsp (2 mL) kosher salt 1 cup (250 mL) each well-stirred tahini, granulated sugar and packed brown sugar 1 cup (250 mL) room temperatur­e unsalted butter 2 large eggs 2 tsp (10 mL) vanilla extract 12 oz. (340 g) white chocolate, cut into small chunks (or 2 cups white chocolate chips) 1cup (250 mL) white sesame seeds, plus more as necessary Preheat oven to 350 F (180 C). Prepare baking trays lined with parchment or baking mats. Set aside. In a large mixing bowl, sift together flour, cocoa powder and baking soda. Whisk in salt. Set aside.

In a stand mixer with a paddle attachment or a large mixing bowl with electric beaters, cream together tahini, granulated sugar, brown sugar and butter on medium speed until smooth. Turn speed down to low. Mix in eggs and vanilla until smooth. With mixer still on low speed, add flour mixture little by little until well-incorporat­ed and there are no streaks. Using a rubber spatula, fold in chocolate chunks.

Pour sesame seeds into a small bowl. Scoop tablespoon-sized balls of dough and roll in sesame seeds.

Place dough balls on prepared baking sheets, leaving about 2 inches (5 cm.) of space between balls. Flatten balls slightly with palms. Let dough rest for 20 minutes, if desired. Bake for 18 to 20 minutes or until cookies are set.

Remove from heat. Let cool for 10 minutes before transferri­ng to a cooling rack. Makes about 48 cookies.

 ?? KARON LIU TORONTO STAR ?? Sweet Potato Latkes with Miso-Apple Slaw
KARON LIU TORONTO STAR Sweet Potato Latkes with Miso-Apple Slaw
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