Time-travelling fashion trend
They flocked together in silky gowns, arms draped in billowing sleeves, with many wearing high black hats or intricate floral headpieces.
If they resembled time travellers teleported from a Chinese imperial ritual of a thousand years ago, that was just the desired effect.
These hundreds of retro-style dressers, gathered on a university campus in Beijing this past weekend, are devotees of the “Hanfu” movement. They are dedicated to reviving the clothes they believe China’s Han ethnic majority wore before their country succumbed to centuries of foreign domination.
“Hanfu is a social scene, and that’s why I’m into it, but it also has deeper levels of national feeling too,” said Yin Zhuo, 29, a computer programmer, who joined the day of activities in a long blue gown and red cape with a fake fur fringe.
While the Chinese government bans countless social activities, the nationalist leader, Xi Jinping, has promoted reviving traditional virtues, making this a golden time for fans of Hanfu.
Hundreds of groups across China now practise Hanfu, especially on college campuses. Proponents say it has up to one million followers, mostly female, and mostly in their teens and 20s. Internet commerce has spread the trend, making it easy for shops to reach devotees even in small towns.
The Hanfu enthusiasts who met this past Saturday were celebrating the 15 years since Wang Letian, a power utility worker, strolled through Zhengzhou, a city in central China, wearing old-style robes, an event recorded on the country’s then-emerging internet. The movement claims that Wang’s walk was a milestone in its modern rebirth.
Chinese officials have embraced Hanfu costumes as part of the Communist Party’s idea of tradition. Schools now often parade students in traditional scholar gowns for reimagined versions of coming-ofage ceremonies. When Xi hosted U.S. President Donald Trump in Beijing last year, they watched traditional Chinese musicians dressed in Hanfu.
Hanfu draws on the idea that China’s ethnic Han majority — who make up more than 90 per cent of the country’s population — should show their pride by wearing clothes like those worn before Manchu armies from the north occupied China and ruled it as the Qing dynasty from 1644.
Despite the movement’s growing popularity most Hanfu followers step out in their outfits only on special occasions. A few of the most committed wear their Hanfu clothes almost every day.
Above all, followers differ over whether Hanfu is primarily about ethnic assertion, instilling ancient values or simply making a bold fashion statement.
“There are nationalists, then there are people purely into the look and esthetics, and there’s another group drawn to ancient traditions,” said Fu Renjun, an editor of a website that promotes reviving traditional Chinese culture. “In practice, people can be a bit of each of these.”