A modern twist on RETRO DINING
We have created a three-course meal inspired by Star recipes from the 1930s, ’40s and ’60s, and updated them to be spot-on cooking trends for 2018
One of my favourite past times is diving into the Star’s old newspapers to see what home cooks made, what food trends captured the city and which ingredients were popular or available at different times in Toronto’s past. It’s fascinating to see how the city’s food landscape changed with increased immigration, innovation in farming and influence from popular culture. If you are curious, it’s a great way to spend time. And access is not limited to Star employees: anyone can search the newspaper’s archives via the Toronto Public Library’s website.
I took on the challenge of creating a three-course meal using decades-old recipes. After making the original, I remade each with a few tweaks so they were more in line with 2018 tastes. I settled on three entertaining mainstays: a salad dressing, a meatloaf and because it’s the holidays, a fruitcake.
I have included both the original recipes and my revised versions maintaining the spirit of the original dish, but modified to simplify the steps, make vegan-friendly or keep in tune with current cooking trends.
Cream Salad Dressing Star Tested
The Star Weekly Kitchen was a recipe leaflet included in the Star Weekly newspaper supplement from 1910 to 1973.
One interesting feature, “Salad Dressing for Every Salad,” had some seriously retro recipes, including homemade classics such as Thousand Island and French and dressings labelled “to be used in reducing diets.” They contain mineral oil, which works as a laxative (I decided not to republish those recipes).
I couldn’t pinpoint the exact year these salad dressing recipes were published (the leaflet itself wasn’t dated in the Star archives), but author and recipe columnist Jean Brodie’s bylines appeared in the Star in the 1930s. At this time, rich, egg and cream-based dressings were all the rage. Initially, I was skeptical of this cream salad dressing, but its spicy zip and creamy, mayo-like texture is surprisingly tasty. The vinegar mixture will make your eyes water when heated, so avoid taking a big whiff.
1/2 cup (125 ml) 35 % whipping cream 2 tsp (10 ml) all-purpose flour 1 tsp (5 ml) each mustard powder and kosher salt 1-1/2 tsp (7 ml) granulated sugar 1/4 tsp (1 ml) cayenne pepper 1 egg yolk 1/3 cup (80 ml) white vinegar 1 tsp (5 ml) unsalted butter
In a mixing bowl, whisk whipping cream until stiff peaks form. Refrigerate until ready to use.
In a heatproof mixing bowl, whisk together flour, mustard, salt, sugar and cayenne. Stir in egg yolk, vinegar and butter. Set aside.
In a small saucepan over medium heat, bring about 1-inch (2.5 cm) of water to a gentle simmer. Place bowl over simmering water, whisking vigorously until butter has melted and everything is wellincorporated and slightly thickened. Remove bowl from heat and let cool to room temperature.
Fold mixture into chilled whipped cream. Serve immediately or refrigerate for up to two days.
Makes about 1 cup dressing.
Maple-Cayenne Yogurt Salad Dressing Star Tested
My updated take on the cream dressing replaces the decadent whipped cream for plain yogurt in an effort to get that same tangy, creamy taste without using a double boiler or whipping any cream. The maple syrup gives it a touch of sweetness and Canadiana, though agave or honey can also be used. This matches well with hearty bitter greens such as kale. Toss in salad a few hours in advance to let the acid in the yogurt help tenderize the leaves. 1 cup (250 ml) plain yogurt 1 tsp (5 ml) mustard powder 1/2 tsp (2 ml) salt 1 tsp (5 ml) maple syrup 1/4 tsp (1 ml) cayenne pepper
Whisk all ingredients together in a bowl. Serve immediately or refrigerate for up to a week. Makes 1 cup dressing.