Five seriously stylish sparking wines
It’s December and the holiday season is in full swing! How are you holding up? Exhausted? Well, hang in there. You’ve got a week or so left. And chances are you’ll still need to buy a bottle of bubbly at some point, so let me help you out. The popularity of Prosecco can make it seem a bit ordinary — so skip that style. And bona-fide Champagne — the good stuff from France — can blow your budget in a single pop, so that might not be the best choice. Instead, reach for any of these five fabulous wines that are undersung, undervalued and less than $21.
NV Trapiche Extra Brut Sparkling, Argentina (LCBO 262261 $13.95 in stores and online)
This dry bubbly made from an unconventional blend of grape varieties-Chardonnay, semillon and Malbec — offers incredible value for money. It shines pale lemon yellow in the glass, exudes aromas of freshly sliced Gala apples and warm croissant and offers a brisk, expansive attack upon entry. Mouth-filling flavours of fresh apples, lemon zest and butter pastry erupt then slowly retreat, leaving a long, elegant finish. Not terribly complex but very pure-tasting, eloquent and well-balanced wine for the price. Serve it with a big bowl of salted, pot-popped popcorn. Score: 93
NV Cono Sur Sparkling Pinot Noir Rosé, Chile (LCBO 365205 $13.95 in stores and online)
Sparkling rosé is very on trend right now. And this pure Pinot Noir is one of the best value versions on shelves today. It shines a pretty shade of rose gold threaded with delicate bubbles and immediately draws you in with coy aromas of raspberries and cream with a hint of nougat somewhere. More subtle and dry-tasting then the label might suggest, the entry is soft but refreshing with restrained notes of ripe raspberries and cream with the whisper of nougat emerging again on the finish. Serve it with goat cheese baked in phyllo pastry. Score: 92
NV Villa Conchi Seleccion Cava, Spain (LCBO 577148 $17.45 in stores and online)
Though the price has risen nearly $3 since I recommended this wine a year ago, it still an excellent Cava that’s well worth the money. It’s straw-coloured and pale with wispy aromas of sea spray and white grapefruit that enters like a beam of lighttightly coiled flavours of grapefruit, green olive, granite and bitter orange peel unfurling in the mouth. There’s a quiet kiss of sweetness somewhere but it’s balanced by racy acidity. The allure of this sassy Spanish sparkler is its mineral and Mediterranean vibe. It’s a Cava that really comes to life with a dish of good olives. Score: 91
NV Grande Cuvée 1531 de Aimery, Crémant de Limoux, France (LCBO 428086 $18.95 in stores and online)
Crémant is sparkling wine made in France outside of the Champagne region. And because it undergoes a second fermentation in bottle to make it bubbly, it can be quite complex and elegant — much like Champagne. Such is the case here with this Chardonnay-Chenin Blanc-Pinot Noir blend from Limoux, which is also the oldest sparkling wine region in the world. Here, elegant aromas and flavours hint at white peach, white flowers and almonds with a hint of crushed stone and salt on the finish. This is a dry, sophisticated wine with tiny bubbles to pour with pride. Excellent with smoked salmon or shrimp cocktail. Score: 94
NV Paul Delane Crémant de Bourgogne Réserve, France (LCBO 214981 $20.55 in stores and online)
From Burgundy comes this shining example of crémant. It blends Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Aligoté and Gamay to create a sparkling wine full of finesse. Pale gold in colour with a persistent stream of bubbles, this wine exudes delicate aromas of baked apple and butter pastry. Then, the attack is crisp and elegant with flavours of French apple tart threaded with notes of nutmeg, lemon and wet stones that linger on the finish. For a real treat, serve this crémant with gougères — those great cheese puffs served in France. Score: 92