Delicious wines refreshingly low in alcohol

Alcohol levels in wine have been creeping up recently, largely due to global warming and a demand for riper styles. But wines with 14 per cent alcohol or higher can taste more spoonable than drinkable, hampering the refreshment factor. With that in mind, I’ve scouted five delicious wines with a relatively low 13 per cent alcohol level or less — all of which are undervalued. NV Champagne Victoire Brut Prestige, France (LCBO 190025 $39.95 in stores and online)

Ever wonder if the least expensive Champagne at the LCBO is any good? I had the chance to find out the other day when I tasted it at lunch with friends. And it’s actually quite lovely — clean, elegant and beautifully balanced with classic aromas and flavours of cooked apple, lemon curd, and pastry. The dry attack is instantly enchanting while the delicate effervescence adds texture and lift. And like most Champagnes, the alcohol is a modest 12 per cent. Outstanding value. Score: 91+

NV Masi Modello Prosecco Brut, Veneto, Italy (Vintages 624932 $17.95 in stores and online)

Masi Agricola, a reliable producer of Italian wines, recently launched this new Prosecco — and it’s well worth getting acquainted with for its polish and purity. In the glass, it shines pale ash blond and exudes aromas of lemon preserves with a touch of dried apricot. The entry is delicate, dry, and restrained, unspooling with glassy-cool flavours that flit from citrus, to stone, to white nectarine, to steel. Superbly balanced with just 11 per cent alcohol. And it’s drier than most Proseccos on shelves, with just 9 g/L of residual sugar. Score: 92

2016 Tawse Sketches of Niagara Riesling, VQA Niagara Peninsula, ON (Vintages 89029 $19.95 in stores and online)

This wine is a sweeter style of Riesling, yes, but don’t let that put you off. It makes a fabulous cocktail alternative or predinner drink. Expect an intense scent of caramelized peach tart, followed by a lively attack with saturated ribbons of cool, sorbet-like flavour that call to mind poached stone fruit and lime sherbet. Then, the flavour fades to a subtle salinity that lingers. A pleasure to drink in a tumbler, chilled, with a handful of roasted cashews. Only 10 per cent alcohol. Score: 93

2015 Domaine Bersan Irancy, Jean-Louis & Jean-Christophe, Saint Bris, Burgundy, France (Vintages 637827 $26.95 in stores and online)

Pinotphiles and Burgundy hounds take note: This wine is a steal. So snag a bottle or two — and fast. It’s from a northern little patch of Burgundy called Irancy often overlooked because it can make thin, acerbic reds. But that’s certainly not the case here. Instead, this wine offers a languid, sinuous expression of Pinot Noir with scents of sun-warmed violets that mingle with smoked plum before sliding in with silky allusions of poached plum, toast, violet and more —all scored with an attractive chalkiness. Seductive with a low 12.5 per cent alcohol. Score: 95

2017 Domaine Baron de l’Écluse Vieilles Vignes, Côtes de Brouilly, France (Vintages 637306 $20.95 in stores and online)

I’ve said this before, but Cru Beaujolais is one of the best bargains of the wine world. Hailing the 10 top growing areas — or “crus” — of Beaujolais, these wines can offer outstanding value for money. Brouilly is one such cru, and this wine entices with pulse-quickening aromas of crushed ripe blackberries dusted with cocoa. The entry is smooth and downy, lit with a bright seam of acidity. The black cherry and blackberry centre tastes rich for a wine with 13 per cent alcohol, while notes of earth, stone, dried bay leaf, and walnut add charm. Score: 90