Rosé season starts now. Here’s your cheat sheet

Face it. Rosé has a season — with or without COVID-19. And it starts right now. Because a really charming rosé always tastes like spring or summer in a glass. And who doesn’t want a dose of sunshine right now.

But the category is a minefield. Rosé looks pretty in the bottle, but it’s often out of balance — too sweet, too tart, or too alcoholic. And you can’t tell just by looking at it.

So I tasted a broad range of rosés widely available at the LCBO to let you know which ones are best.

For real bargain, pick up a bottle of NV Thalia Rosé —a sheer watermelon-tinged wine from Greece (Vintages 14153 $10.95). Made from Kotsifali and Mandilaria grapes indigenous to the Greek Islands, the aroma puts you smack dab by the sea. Close your eyes, put your nose in the glass and smell the seaside — it’s right there.

Then, the glossy cool entry tastes delicate and pure with teasing suggestions of sour cherry, saltwater and a delicate floral lift. Each sip is dry, refreshing and silky-smooth with a lovely little bit of chalky texture on the finish. Thalia Rosé is just a gem of a wine for the money. And the intriguing label design by Toronto artist Billy Lourakis adds a local touch. Pour it with chicken souvlaki or grilled fish. Score: 93

Also quite good is the 2018 Sandbanks Rosé, VQA Ontario (LCBO 244616 $13.95). This blend of Vidal, Gamay Noir, Pinot Noir and Muscat Blanc shines the prettiest shade of pale coral, releases gentle aromas of peach cobbler and then swirls across the palate with satiny-cool flavours of ruby grapefruit and white peach that taste understated and pure. Then, a touch of orange zest that lingers on the finish. Pour this light-bodied, dry — but not bone-dry — rosé with crackers and cream cheese or take-out dim sum. Score 90 ( This wine is also available through sandbankswinery.com for $13.95/bottle with free shipping in Ontario for four bottles for more.)

From South Africa, 2019 The Beachhouse Rosé ( LCBO 164343 $11.95) exudes the gentlest fragrance of chargrilled red plums then unfurls with glossy-tasting allusions of red berries, juicy plums and wet stones. As those flavours fade, the roasted plum character returns and persists. Though this peach-coloured wine has 16g/L of residual sugar, it tastes quite dry because the bracing acidity hides the sweetness. The bottle pairs brilliantly with baba ganoush. Score: 93

For a fruit-forward French fizz, there’s NV Luc Belaire Rare Rosé from Provence (Vintages 395384 $39.95). It gleams a wild salmon colour and offers a mouthfilling hit of just-plucked strawberries and cool blackcurrant with a kiss of sweetness that offsets the lively acidity. Although this blend of Syrah, Grenache and Cinsault is more about easy refreshment than nuanced, ponderous sipping, it’s a perfect cocktail-style wine for a little casual-luxe alongside paté and croutes. Score: 90

Fans of more restrained sparkling rosé should consider the 2016 Marqués de la Concordia MM Reserva de Familia Brut Rosé from Spain (Vintages 14616 $16.95). It’s a Cava Reserva with 70 per cent Pinot Noir and 30 per cent Monastrell that exudes coy scents of raspberries, figs and marzipan. Then, an elegant interplay of red berries, freshly sliced apricot and dried figs follows on the palate with a touch of dried oregano and a long roasted almond finish. Quite a savoury, complex wine that would be beautiful with thinly sliced charcuterie — especially cured ham — or mushroom quiche. Score: 92

On June 13, the LCBO releases 2019 Flat Rock Cellars Pink Twisted, VQA Niagara Peninsula (Vintages 39974 $17.95). But the wine is also available now at the winery ($18.15/bottle with free shipping over $150). This deep pink rosé tastes like a vinous version of raspberry-lemonade — a dryish blend of Pinot Noir, Gamay, Riesling and Gewürztraminer that blasts the taste buds with sweet red berry goodness and tart lemon acidity. Just the kind of thing to drink chilled down in a tumbler for that summertime feeling. Score: 89

Those who like their rosé sweet but discreet rather than fruit-forward would enjoy the 2018 Woodbridge Rosé from California (LCBO 13248 $11.45) — scheduled to hit shelves mid-May. This pale, seashellpink wine wafts with white peach and tastes surprisingly subtle. Each sip suggests lemon meringue pie laced with cool berries — all sweet and satisfyingly sour. Spicy Asian noodle dishes would be fabulous with this wine. But it also works quite well sipped on its own — cocktail style. Score: 90

For single serve rosé in a can, the NV Bodacious Moscato Rosé ( LCBO 14868 $3.95/ 250mL) is not bad at all. To be honest, this may be the first wine in a can I’ve actually enjoyed. This pale pink bubbly is a blend of international and domestic Moscato, Riesling and Vidal that teems with clean flavours of apricot, raspberry and peach. The natural sweetness exists because the winemaker leaves some unfermented Vidal juice in the final cuvée. The result is a juicy, light rosé that’s a pleasure to drink. Pour it with all sorts of salty snacks. Score: 89

So now we’ve got our rosé shopping list. Soon, we’ll be able to enjoy a glass in the sunshine on our porch, deck or balcony.

Rosé looks pretty in the bottle, but can often be too sweet, too tart or too alcoholic, which makes the category a bit of a minefield. Wine columnist Carolyn Evans Hammond has tasted a range of rosés widely available at the LCBO to save you the guesswork.