Toronto Star

How to save without sacrificin­g taste

- Carolyn Evans Hammond Carolyn Evans Hammond is a Toronto-based wine writer and a freelance contributi­ng columnist for the Star. Reach her via email: carolyn@carolyneva­nshammond.com

Right now, the five bestsellin­g bottles of wine in Ontario right now are J. Lohr Seven Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon from California, Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand, Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio from Italy, Apothic Red from California, and Josh Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon from California. One of these wines may even be your tried and true. But it’s always nice to have options. So today I’m revealing a happy alternativ­e to each that’s similar, delicious and may even save you a few bucks.

The most popular wine in the province right now is J. Lohr Seven Oaks Cabernet from California (LCBO 656561 $23.95). It topped $21 million in sales in the past 12 months. And it’s decent wine. Those who like it probably appreciate its dry classicism. It’s not a glossy-tasting sunshine-in-the-glass hit of wild berry fruit, but rather a bit more restrained and subtle with a bit of texture. And a smart alternativ­e just hit shelves in Ontario.

The 2018 Trinity Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon from California (LCBO 15761 $17.95) tastes quite similar and saves you six bucks. This brand new listing at the LCBO starts with the quiet perfume of blackcurra­nt and violet then leads to a bright, dry wash of cassis with discreet smoky-spicy-savory undertones. Each sip is supple yet properly structured with that easy-drinking, medium-bodied weight. Great find. Score: 92 If Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc from Marlboroug­h, New Zealand (LCBO 35386 $19.95) is your idea of a good time, you’re not alone. More than $19 million worth of that wine was sold in the past year at the LCBO. But for Marlboroug­h Sauvignon Blanc under $20, I tend to prefer the less grassy-tasting 2019 Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc (LCBO 308288 $19.95).

True to Marlboroug­h Sauvignon Blanc, the 2019 Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc is aromatic but the nose is all about the intriguing fragrance of jalapeno before the fullthrott­le attack speeds across the palate unravellin­g with dry, vivid notes of pink grapefruit, crushed salt, lime zest, and jalapeno (without the heat, of course) that tastes polished to a high sheen. Then, each sip tapers off and leaves the palate well-seasoned with salt and lime. Such a pleasure to drink. Score: 93

If you’re all about that crisp, chilled glass of Santa Margherita Valdadige Pinot Grigio from Trentino, Italy (LCBO 106450 $19.95) — $14 million of which was sold in Ontario in the past 12 months — give the 2018 Ruffino Orvieto Classico DOC from Umbria, Italy a try (LCBO 31062 $12.95). Like the Pinot Grigio, this light, bright white delivers immediate refreshmen­t. Its breezy aromas of citrus and stone draw you toward a brisk but poised palate. Flavours seem sheer and shiny as they suggest cooked apple, cool slate, white flowers and almonds. There’s even a persistent little finish. Good value. Score: 92 Apothic Red from California (LCBO 234369 $16.95) clocked more than $12 million in sales in Ontario in the past year making it the fourth most popular wine in Ontario. This big, sweet-centred red is wildly popular with those who like this sun-drenched style. If that’s you, here’s news you can use: In March, Apothic launched 2018 Apothic Cabernet Sauvignon also from California (LCBO 14130 $16.95), and it’s sure to appeal to lovers of Apothic Red. The new Cabernet Sauvignon offers all the full-bodied richness of its popular “Red” but is slightly drier and more serious tasting. So it seems a slight step up in sophistica­tion but doesn’t cost a penny more. Those who like it will like it a lot. Score: 88

Of course, Apothic Red is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Zinfandel. For an alternativ­e from those same varieties also from California, grab a bottle of 2018 Three Thieves Red Wine Blend (LCBO 13687 $16.95). It’s a total steal and brand new to Ontario this month.

Although it’s technicall­y drier than Apothic Red, 2018 Three Thieves Red Wine Blend still tastes ripe, smooth, and full of fruit and is sure to appeal to newbies and more seasoned wine drinkers alike. Each sip starts with muted aromas of black forest fruit that pave the way to a juicy entry that tastes pure and unfolds slowly with suggestion­s of espresso, blackcurra­nt liqueur, bitterswee­t chocolate, and a touch of toasted clove and vanilla that persist on the finish. Well-made, stylish wine at a reasonable price sure to up your wine game. Score: 94 The fifth most popular wine in Ontario right now is Josh Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon from California (LCBO 461053 $17.95 till June 21, Reg. $19.95), which also sold more than $12 million in the last 12 months. This fruitdrive­n red is delicious. But so is the slightly less expensive and similar-tasting 2017 Ultimate Longshot Cabernet Sauvignon from California (LCBO 633347 $16.00).

The 2018 Ultimate Longshot Cabernet Sauvignon starts with subdued aromas of cola and cassis before the sleek, satiny entry fans out with cherries, blackcurra­nt, warm wood, cola and cassis. This dry-tasting, cashmere-textured wine with a touch of black olive goodness on the finish offers instant pleasure — so not a long-shot after all. Score: 92

So there you have it. Options.

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