Give that whisky sour a shake
Don’t be put off by egg white, it gives a frothy top and silky body
When Southern Accent closed last month, I immediately thought of their famous Bourbon Sours. Actually, that was the specific drink that got me interested in cocktails over 20 years ago.
At the time, most sours at bars and restaurants in Toronto were made carelessly with powdered mix. By contrast, the ones at Southern Accent were made with fresh-squeezed lemons and were fluffy and frothy from the strict shaking protocol at the bar, which, I heard, called for shaking each cocktail over ice for 30 full seconds — no shortcuts.
I went down a rabbit hole after that, only to discover that most of the indifferent cocktails served at Toronto bars could be improved with fresh, highquality ingredients and a little care. It’s not rocket science, especially with the whisky sour, a simple drink of lemon juice, whisky, special fine granulated sugar and an egg white. The key to making it next-level is the shaking.
A few weeks ago, with the negroni, we explained the basics of shaking versus stirring. If a recipe calls for straight “clear” ingredients (like the martini, manhattan or negroni), the cocktail should be stirred over ice. With “cloudy” ingredients, like juice, dairy or eggs, it’s time to get shaking, because it’s harder to emulsify those ingredients.
What’s up with the egg white? It adds texture. An egg white transforms a flat, lifeless sour into one with a silky body and a nice frothy top. Plus, it rounds out the sharp edges of the lemon juice.
Vegans can substitute aquafaba (chickpea water) or a commercial foamer, such as Ms. Better’s Bitters Miraculous
Foamer (available at Cocktail Emporium) to achieve the same effect but without eggs.
And speaking of substitutes, since they don’t make bourbon in Canada and this series is dedicated to building the classics with local liquor, this recipe calls for Junction 56 Canadian whisky, a lovely, small-batch, four-year-old spirit made in Stratford that’s a steal at $40.
Stratford Sour
2 oz Junction 56 whisky 3/4 oz fresh lemon juice 1-1/2 tsp special fine granulated sugar 1 small egg white (if it’s a large egg, use half) 3 drops Angostura bitters (for garnish)
Method: Add all ingredients except bitters to an ice filled cocktail shaker. Shake rigorously for 45 seconds, until the shaker is really cold and the drink is really frothy. Strain through the shaker top and a fine strainer (to remove pulp) into a chilled coupe glass. Sprinkle three drops of Angostura on foamy top.
Note: Some people prefer their sours on the rocks and garnished with a cherry. That’s also good, but my preference is straight-up so it doesn’t get too watery. Plus, that’s the way they served them at Southern Accent, a Toronto institution that will be sorely missed.
Tip: This recipe works with almost any base spirit, including gin, rum, vodka and brandy — all of which are made at Ontario craft distilleries. For something different, try it with La Pressatura, Tawse winery’s answer to Italian grappa.