Toronto Star

Montreal is fascinatin­g and vibrant at any time of year

- LAURIE HERTZEL MINNEAPOLI­S STAR TRIBUNE

It’s been years since I was last in Montreal, but once this difficult time ends and we are all able to move around safely again, it’s the first place I want to go.

My husband and I have visited Montreal many times, at all times of the year. In summer, we walked through parks blooming with flowers, past gently splashing fountains. We dodged the many bicyclists, sat outside and had a glass of wine at one of the sidewalk cafés as the sun went down. In autumn, we moved indoors, visiting art museums and galleries on rainy afternoons.

But I might like Montreal in the winter most of all, with the snug, warm efficiency of the Metro and the undergroun­d city.

One winter, we travelled to Montreal to take part in Montréal en Lumière, a weeklong festival celebratin­g warmth and light in the darkest month of the year. Ours was the last plane allowed in that evening before a storm forced the airport to close, and our cab fishtailed through the streets of Old Montreal to our inn, snow falling thick and fast past the glittering streetligh­ts.

As part of the festival, restaurant­s served incredible meals outdoors, in big white tents hung with heat lamps. A toboggan slide was set up in the middle of downtown, near an outdoor stage where musicians played and people danced in the falling snow. My husband and I toasted marshmallo­ws over fire barrels while a Chinese dragon dance snaked through the crowd.

Later, inside, we attended the red-hot performanc­e of the Buena Vista Social Club one night and the next night took in a performanc­e of Cirque Éloize, Montreal’s enchanting European-style circus, with acrobats and unicyclist­s and mournful clarinets.

Yes, winter might be the time to go again.

But whenever we go back, whatever the season, we will visit the Musée des Beaux-Arts and look at the paintings by the

Group of Seven. We will have dinner along Duluth Street, which is dotted with tiny, ethnic restaurant­s.

We’ll walk through the Marché Jean-Talon farmers market to ogle the bright fruits and vegetables. We’ll head down to the Vieux-Port for dinner at one of the lovely French restaurant­s and look out at the ice skaters on the harbour, or at the rain slicking the cobbleston­e streets.

And we will hike up to the top of Parc Mont-Royal and undoubtedl­y get lost, as we always do, on its criss-crossed wooded trails. We will finally find our way out of the trees into an open spot, where we will stand and stare down at the beautiful city and all it holds.

And we will be so glad to be back.

 ?? DANIEL SLIM AFP/GETTY IMAGES FILE PHOTO ?? A view of downtown Montreal from Mount Royal.
DANIEL SLIM AFP/GETTY IMAGES FILE PHOTO A view of downtown Montreal from Mount Royal.

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