‘Acid mantle’ is the new buzz term in skin care
Could repairing yours be the key to happier skin?
We hear a lot about the skin barrier. You know, that layer of the epidermis that acts like a shield. You don’t notice it as much when it’s doing its job, but boy can you tell when it’s not doing so well: dryness, inflammation, eczema … But that’s not to say the moisture barrier shoulders all the responsibility when it comes to safeguarding your skin. There’s also a lesser known player some say is essential in the defence strategy. It’s called the acid mantle.
The term is garnering buzz with more brands marketing products deemed safe or beneficial for the acid mantle. Popular skin care line Drunk Elephant, for instance, positions the acid mantle at the heart of its mission statement. “We focus on healthy pH levels, formulations the skin recognizes, small molecular structure that’s easily absorbed, and effective active ingredients that also support and maintain the skin’s acid mantle,” reads the company’s “Our Philosophy” page. But what does that mean? What is an acid mantle and how can we know if ours is healthy? We reached out to a dermatologist for answers.
What is the acid mantle?
“The term ‘acid mantle’ was first introduced more than 90 years ago by German scientists studying the pH of the skin, which as it turns out is slightly acidic,” explains Dr. Katie Beleznay, clinical instructor at the University of British Columbia’s department of dermatology. It’s formed when sebum, a.k.a. your skin’s natural oil, mixes with sweat. “This results in a very thin, slightly acidic film present on the surface of the skin, which is believed to help serve as a barrier to protect against bacteria, viruses and other contaminants that might penetrate the skin.”
So how is the acid mantle different from the skin barrier?
The “skin barrier,” also called the “moisture barrier,” refers to the stratum corneum, which is your skin’s outermost layer. “One of the functions of the stratum corneum is to help prevent water loss, hence the name ‘moisture barrier,’ ” says Beleznay. “It also plays an important role in keeping harmful substances out. The acid mantle exists on top of the surface of the skin and provides additional protection.”
How can we tell if our acid mantle has been disrupted?
Dryness, redness and irritation can all be signs that your skin’s pH has been disrupted. The thing is, says Beleznay, there are other things that can cause these types of conditions, so it’s tough to know for sure if a compromised acid mantle is what’s at the root of the issue.
What kind of things can compromise the acid mantle?
A variety of things we put on our skin can do this, says Beleznay, including cleansers with aggressive surfactants, harsh or abrasive scrubs, and alcoholbased toners. “In general, the skin will return to its natural pH level pretty quickly so long as you are not overcleansing, over-exfoliating or using products that will disrupt the skin barrier on an ongoing basis,” she says. Certain skin conditions like atopic dermatitis (eczema), rosacea and acne can also disrupt the acid mantle. “If you are suffering from any of these, you may wish to see a dermatologist,” she advises.
What can we do to help fortify or preserve our acid mantle?
There is some research showing that products that are slightly acidic, meaning they have a lower pH, may be helpful, says the dermatologist. For reference, anything with a pH less than 7 (the pH of pure water) is considered acidic. However, most products do not disclose their pH, so it can be tough to tell unless explicitly stated. That’s why Beleznay recommends focusing on gentle cleansing and avoiding anything harsh or astringent. “As with any skin barrier concerns, moisturizing is important,” she adds. She suggests looking for a moisturizer that contains ingredients like hyaluronic acid and ceramides to help repair and maintain a healthy acid mantle and skin barrier.