Delicious flavours, with no gimmick required
You might know Queenston Mile Vineyard as the Niagara winery that partnered with Taco Bell last year to pair its “Jalapeno Noir,” a limitededition Pinot Noir, with the fast-food chain’s Toasted Cheesy Chalupa. The news dropped Sept. 16, the story went viral and the wine was gone in flash.
“The wine sold out in 48 minutes at Taco Bell and in eight minutes at the winery,” said Andrew Howard, one of the owners of Queenston Mile Vineyard.
The $25 Jalapeno Noir and the $5.49 Toasted Cheesy Chalupas are no longer available. But Queenston Mile’s focus on democratizing wine — without compromising quality — lives on.
“Our tag line is upscale never tasted so down to earth,” says Howard. “We’re premium but not stuffy or intimidating.” No doubt. Nothing says so quite like partnering with Taco Bell.
If you haven’t had the pleasure of enjoying a bottle from Queenston Mile Vineyard, consider doing so. The little winery on St. David’s Bench at 963 Queenston Rd. in Niagaraon-the-Lake makes excellent wine — especially from Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. And it offers curbside pickup by appointment and online shopping at queenstonmilevineyard.com; shipping is waived for six bottles or more with the code FREESHIP. Here are four bottles worth your attention.
The 2016 Queenston Mile Vineyard Blanc de Noirs Brut Nature, VQA St. David’s Bench ($50) is a lovely sparkling Pinot Noir with no sugar added, which is what “Brut Nature” means. On the nose, the gentle fragrance suggests sliced pears, a touch of lemon zest and a whisper of butter pastry. The attack is brisk and mouth-watering but not sharp or shrill. Then a glasslike luminescence floods in, shot through with fine effervescence. The flavours are sheer, delicate, but precise, too. First, lemon appears and pear. Then raspberry and violet surface quietly. Finally, brine, grapefruit pith and stones linger. Score: 94
For a brilliant buttery Chardonnay, 2017 Queenston Mile Vineyard Barrel Fermented Chardonnay, VQA St. David’s Bench ($35) is a bit of a thrill. Just a gorgeous wine! It brims with butterscotch aromas and flavours, as well as a myriad of other enchanting allusions — praline, butter tart, marzipan, buttered toast and mixed citrus — but dry, of course. Each sip is mouthfilling with lots of lemony lift and sunlit purity that shines through all those caramelized notes. It leaves me craving a bowl of gnocchi with brown butter and sage with a dusting of Parmesan. Long. Score: 94
The 2017 Queenston Mile Vineyard Estate Bottled Pinot Noir, VQA St. David’s Bench ($40) is brawny and magnetic. It starts with scents of muddled black cherries, burnt almond and sweet tobacco. Then a suave, satiny sweep of fruit follows. It tastes elegant and seamless, with dark yet poised flavours that echo those found on the nose. A touch of cola and white pepper thread the centre and stay, resonating on the finish. Such finesse. Score: 93
Also charming is a compelling little blend of Chardonnay, Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc called the 2017 Queenston Mile Vineyard “Mile White,” VQA Niagara Peninsula ($25). Each sip starts with soft, understated scents of sliced mango, lemon curd and meringue. The scents draw you in. The entry is smooth, almost oily in texture, ripe and shot through with lively acidity. The flavours are generous, dry and beautifully balanced — no angularity, heat or harshness. Just a refreshing swirl of cool, tropical fruit that nods toward mixed citrus as well as tropical fruit, but as soon as you think you identify one flavour another one appears instead. It’s a fun game. The winery suggests pairing this wine with ripe triple-cream brie with Niagara peach jam and lightly salted crostini. Could not agree more. Score: 89
Hey, Taco Bell: bring back the Toasted Cheesy Chalupa so we can taste it with these wines to see which one works best.
Carolyn Evans Hammond is a Toronto-based wine writer and a freelance contributing columnist for the Star. Wineries occasionally sponsor segments on her YouTube series yet they have no role in the selection of the wines she chooses to review or her opinions of those wines. Reach her via email: carolyn@carolynevanshammond.com