Toronto Star

Discover a world of artists and artisans on a visit to Charlevoix

This magical region of Quebec stretches from the Laurentian Mountains to the shores of the St. Lawrence, all a short drive from Quebec City

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There is a certain quality to the light in Baie-Saint-Paul. For more than a century, artists arrived in the cultural capital of the Quebec’s Charlevoix region to take advantage of the natural glow and capture in oil, pastel and watercolou­r its rugged mountains, dramatic hills, windswept fields, and forests of maples and pines.

And, as their works were showcased in art galleries, Charlevoix attracted tourists — not only from Toronto, Montreal and Quebec City, but also wealthy Americans — eager to relax and unwind, enjoy the region’s natural beauty and its culinary bounty, and fish or hunt.

Nestled on the north coast of the St. Lawrence River, a roughly one-hour drive northeast of Quebec City, Charlevoix still holds a special place among visitors. Each summer it continues to attract artists, but also adventurer­s, culinary connoisseu­rs eager to experience the best the region has to offer, and those needing a break from hectic city lives. Here is what you need to see and do in Charlevoix.

WHERE TO START

The St. Lawrence River plays an important role in the history of Charlevoix. It was on its waters that the region’s Indigenous people travelled along the coast, and Samuel de Champlain later navigated as he explored the region. It was where goods were shipped between towns, cities and continents, and where American tourists arrived for their summer vacations.

Today, you can still ply the historic river’s waters by boat or ferry, but one of the most unique and picturesqu­e ways to experience this historic artery is on the Train de Charlevoix. Operating May 24 through Dec. 1, the train meanders 125 kilometres along the coast from Quebec City through to the community of La Malbaie, offering unmatched views of the river and centuries-old seaside towns.

During your leisurely journey you can opt to hop off the train to spend time in Le Massif de Charlevoix (during certain times of the year), Baie-Saint-Paul and La Malbaie — so you can discover more about Charlevoix’s history and its people.

Stretch your legs and visit the onetime home of beloved Quebecois writer Gabrielle Roy in Petite-Rivière-Saint-François, an historic seaside town below Le Massif, spend time in Baie-Saint-Paul exploring Saint-Jean-Baptiste Street, its main shopping street, lined artisanal stores, art galleries and restaurant­s, or play a round of golf at the historic Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu Golf Club overlookin­g the St. Lawrence in La Malbaie.

Gastronomi­cal enthusiast­s will fall in love with the Charlevoix’s Flavour Trail, a collection of producers, culinary experience and restaurant­s throughout the region.

WHERE TO STAY

There is no shortage of options when it comes to accommodat­ions in the Charlevoix region, from camping and chalets to bed and breakfasts and hotels. Among the iconic resorts in the area is the Fairmont Le Manoir Richelieu in La Malbaie, which is celebratin­g its 125th anniversar­y this year. Its amenities include several restaurant­s, a golf course, wellness centre and spa, and even a zipline and via ferrata.

At the base of Le Massif, you will find Club Med Québec-Charlevoix, an all-inclusive resort that features spectacula­r views of St. Lawrence, a selection hiking and mountain biking trails, and several on-site dining and entertainm­ent options. For a bit of pampering, don’t forget the Le Germain Charlevoix Hotel & Spa in Baie-Saint-Paul. It is home to the Spa Nordique Le Germain, which features six treatment rooms, a small juice bar and relaxation areas.

WHAT TO DO

Learn more about the artistic heritage of the Charlevoix region. Start at the Musée d’art contempora­in de Baie-Saint Paul, that exhibits paintings, sculptures, engravings and photograph­y by national and internatio­nal artists, or by visiting the Galerie d’Art Charlevoix, which is located inside a century-old house. After, be sure to stop at the Musée de Charlevoix in La Malbaie to learn more about the region’s past — and enjoy its outdoor sculpture garden full of whimsical creations.

Gastronomi­cal enthusiast­s will fall in love with the Charlevoix’s Flavour Trail, a collection of producers, culinary experience and restaurant­s throughout the region. Visit the Centre de l’Émeu de Charlevoix in Saint-Urbain to learn how emus are raised and how their meat is being used in traditiona­l Quebec dishes, learn about cider making at Cidrerie et Vergers Pedneault on Isle-aux-Coudres — and island on the St. Lawrence — or how honey wine captures the unique terroirs of the region with Hydromel Charlevoix.

If you aren’t sure where to go to discover the best culinary offerings, Agrotours Charlevoix hosts curated excursions through the region, highlighti­ng producers located near the St. Lawrence River — such as chocolatie­rs and berry growers — to the dairy and cured meat producers found in the hills and mountains above the waterway.

WHERE TO EXPLORE

Charlevoix is home to two national parks and one national conservati­on area where you can connect with nature. Grands-Jardins National Park is located in the Charlevoix Biosphere Reserve and is home to unique flora and fauna that is more akin to Canada’s subarctic taiga than the St. Lawrence region. It is home to several hiking options, like the La Chouenne Trail that passes by some incredible fishing spots.

Also found in the region is Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Rivière-Malbaie National Park, where the Malbaie River winds its way through a gorge featuring some of the highest rock faces in eastern Québec, and the Saguenay-St-Lawrence Marine Park, a national conservati­on area. This special place where the Saguenay and St. Lawrence rivers meet and is home to 2,200 marine species — and offers amazing whale watching opportunit­ies.

You can enjoy the area’s waterways with Katabatik – Aventure dans Charlevoix, which offers guided excursion. Head sea kayaking at several spots along the St. Lawrence River, go paddling with your family on the meandering Du Gouffre River near Baie-Saint-Paul, or test your balance while stand-up paddleboar­ding on the waters off Saint-Irénée Beach, close to La Malbaie.

Biking is also a popular activity in the region. The Entre fleuve et montagnes (between the river and mountains) bike circuit is a more than 100 kilometres circular route that heads from Baie-Saint Paul through the Laurentian­s to La Malbaie and then follows the coast back to its starting point.

While this route is for advanced road bikers — at some points you climb from near sea level to 400 metres in elevation — there are trails for all skill levels. Casual bicyclists will enjoy pedaling parts of the 23-kilometre-long trail that circles the Isle-aux-Coudres, which is accessible via a free ferry. In La Malbaie, a paved cycling path offers nature lovers a short bike ride next to the St. Lawrence River, while in Saint-Urbain the Des Mines Trail features seven cycling options perfect for all ages.

Visit tourisme-charlevoix.com for more ideas on what to see and do in the Charlevoix region.

 ?? ?? CHARLEVOIX IS LOCATED ON THE NORTH COAST OF THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER
CHARLEVOIX IS LOCATED ON THE NORTH COAST OF THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER
 ?? ?? CIDRERIE AND VERGERS PEDNEAULT
CIDRERIE AND VERGERS PEDNEAULT
 ?? ?? THE FAIRMONT LE MANOIR RICHELIEU
THE FAIRMONT LE MANOIR RICHELIEU
 ?? CREDIT: CAROLINE PERRON PHOTOGRAPH­IES ?? THE TRAIN DE CHARLEVOIX
CREDIT: CAROLINE PERRON PHOTOGRAPH­IES THE TRAIN DE CHARLEVOIX
 ?? ?? SAINT-JEAN-BAPTISTE STREET IN BAIE-SAINT-PAUL
SAINT-JEAN-BAPTISTE STREET IN BAIE-SAINT-PAUL

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