LOCAL AND LOVELY
Ontario wines have never been better, so here’s a roundup of excellent homegrown picks
Whether you need the perfect bottle to bring to a dinner party or just want to unwind with something light and quenching after a long day, Ontario’s got you. Local wines have never been better. Now there’s something for every mood and moment — at competitive prices. Read on for your cheat sheet of top Ontario wines at the LCBO.
That really smart bottle When you need something impressive, the 2017 Henry of Pelham Cuvée Catharine “Carte Blanche” Estate Blanc de Blancs, VQA Short Hills Bench, Niagara
(Vintages 315200, $49.95) delivers. It’s just gorgeous. It shines white gold in the glass, threaded by pearly strings of tiny bubbles. The fragrance flits from brioche to baked apple, sweet butter to nutmeg. Then, it beams in and ripples out with marzipan, cool slate, lemon zest, grapefruit pith and more before a note of nutty nougat emerges on the long, slow finish. Dry, enchanting wine that is sure to take any occasion to the next level. Serve it with oysters, mushroom tarte or smoked salmon soufflé. Score: 94
Door of the fridge fizz
To ensure you’re never more than five minutes away from a proper celebration, keep the always lovely NV 13th Street Winery Cuvée Rosé Brut VQA, Niagara Peninsula (Vintages Essential 147504, $32.95) in the fridge. This toast-worthy blend of about half Chardonnay and half Pinot Noir shines the colour of wet coral and draws you in with scents of sliced, just-ripe strawberries and lemon curd slathered on oven-fresh bread. More of the same drenches the palate, tasting lifted and pure with light allusions of salinity, crushed stones, violet and black currant, too. Tart but balanced, this wine is both accessible and sophisticated — and wonderfully persistent. Pair it with grilled prawns dunked in clarified butter for a real treat. Score: 92
Mid-week quaff
Falling squarely into the cheap and cheerful category is the light and lively 2021 Château des Charmes Aligoté Cuvée Michèle, VQA Niagara-onthe-Lake (LCBO 296848, $15.95). Aligoté hails from Burgundy, France, where it tends to take second fiddle to the more noble grape variety, Chardonnay, because it’s usually lighter in body, higher in acidity and not as age-worthy. But it can be a great little refresher when it’s made well, which is the case here. This expression from Ontario starts with a muted, gently mineral nose and then streams in bright, bone dry and beautifully balanced. This restrained white with its neutral, steely character works well chilled way down and served with salty snacks for an easy and inexpensive happy hour. Score: 90
Movie night
A classic pairing for popcorn is a buttery Chardonnay. Level up your movie night with a bottle of the 2021 Hidden Bench Organic Chardonnay, VQA Beamsville Bench (Vintages Essential 68871, $29.95 till April 28, reg. $31.95). Crème brulée aromas lead to a flood of luminous fruit that tastes both weighty and fresh, glossy and pure. Vibrant flavours of baked apple, fresh pear and grapefruit zest are laced with crushed praline and nutmeg with a dollop of cream somewhere. Serious, stylish and resonant. Hidden Bench makes fine quality organic wine, and this bottle is a classic example. You could pay more for less. Score: 91
Grilling red
It’s officially grilling season. And a brilliant burger red now on shelf is the 2019 Kew Vineyards Soldier’s Grant VQA Niagara Peninsula (Vintages 367318, $19.95). This blend of 88 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon and 12 per cent Cabernet Franc made with eight per cent dried fruit offers a plummy rush of easy pleasure. The ripe, darkfruited centre calls to mind damson purée, black cherries and ripe raspberries threaded with a touch of smoked meat. The texture is crushed velvet. And each sip finishes with a savoury white pepper and roasted mushroom finish. Deliciously good value. Works with beef burgers, veggie burgers or portobello mushroom burgers. Score: 93
Nice with spice
Whether you’re serving Mexican, Thai or a good spicy Indian curry — or anything piquant and peppery, an off-dry Riesling is the perfect pour. The kiss of sweetness offsets heat, while the lime-squirt centre seasons the palate and scrapes it clean. A fine example is the 2021 Cave Spring Riesling, VQA Niagara Peninsula (LCBO 234583, $16.95). Chock-full of honeyedlime character on the nose and palate, each sip spirals in with peachy-lime intensity while steely cool acidity keeps the wine upright and bright. Great buy. Score: 92
CAROLYN EVANS HAMMOND IS A TORONTO-BASED WINE WRITER AND A FREELANCE CONTRIBUTING COLUMNIST FOR THE STAR. WINERIES SPONSOR SEGMENTS ON HER YOUTUBE SERIES BUT DON’T SELECT THE WINES SHE REVIEWS. HER OPINIONS ARE HER OWN. PRICES SUBJECT TO CHANGE. REACH HER VIA EMAIL: CAROLYN@CAROLYNEVANSHAMMOND.COM