Discover where the mountains meet the water in Petite-Rivière-Saint-François
This area of Charlevoix is a paradise for nature adventurers who also enjoy a bit of pampering
Running along a narrow six-kilometrelong strip of land where the Laurentian Mountains nearly touch the waters of the St. Lawrence River, Petite-Rivière-Saint-François is considered the gateway of the Charlevoix region.
This is not only because this seaside village is only an hour’s drive from Quebec City — making it a perfect escape no matter the season — but also because in 1675 it became the first site settled in the region by Europeans.
Dominating the local landscape is the Massif de Charlevoix, a four-season recreational destination that, in the summer, is home to hiking and mountain biking trails that offer spectacular river views leading to various lodging units at the base, along with the Club Med Québec Charlevoix — the first in Canada.
Closer to the water, visitors to Petite-Rivière-Saint-François can walk along the riverside trails that offer insight into the village’s past as a shipbuilding and storing centre, admire artwork displayed in La Chapelle de Maillard and visit the cottage of beloved Quebec writer Gabrielle Roy.
WHERE TO START
Beginning this June, visitors can fly between sea, land and sky at Le Massif de Charlevoix. Like a grand carousel ride spanning nearly 5 km, the luminous, sensory, and emotional experience of the Mechanical Bird transports spectators like a bird, soaring over the mountain aboard a gondola and chairlift.
Created by Atelier Occhio, a collective of artists who have worked individually on several large-scale productions for groups like Cirque du Soleil, it magnifies the natural beauty of the mountain.
At the top you can pair the experience with a three-course dinner at Camp Boule buvette de montagne restaurant, or a catered three-course dinner in the resort’s chalet. The Mechanical Bird summer experience runs through Sept. 2.
WHAT TO DO
Walk by the Chalet Gabrielle Roy to learn more about the author, who has been designated a historical figure of note by the government of Quebec. Roy started to spend her summers in Grande-Pointe — below the Le Massif — in 1958 and wrote several of her novels there until her death in 1983. While you cannot go into the building, there are information panels outside that tell her story and her importance in French-language literature.
After, stop by the nearby Domaine à Liguori, a historic site where a homestead was first established in the mid-1700s. The Coopérative de Solidarité l’Affluent (Affluent Solidarity Cooperative) operates on the site and holds a weekly public market each Thursday from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. during the summer, as well as other art and community events. Canyoning Québec operates on the site, offering adventure activities in the Petite-Rivière-Saint-François area, such as canyoning — which includes hiking, swimming, and rappelling — and climbing experiences. The Domaine à Liguori is also home to yoga classes, a café and boutique, hostel, campsite and a seasonal sugar shack.
Drop by the Forêt Gourmande to learn about the edible wild plants that inhabit the forest in this corner of the province. During the summer and winter, guided tours are held where participants learn more about the forest’s wild herbs and mushrooms, and there is also an outdoor workshop where you can learn to prepare some of the foraged ingredients. There is a boutique onsite where you can buy locally made snacks and products.
Head out on two wheels on a mountain biking experience. Le Massif de Charlevoix is home to 55 km of mountain biking trails — with options for all skill levels. Take a chairlift ride to the top and then take one of the 23 downhill enduro-style trails back to the bottom while zipping past pine trees and experiencing amazing views of the St. Lawrence River and the Charlevoix region. There are also two zones where you can test your skills, one at the top and the other at the base of the mountain. The 2024 mountain biking season runs from June 15 to Oct. 14.
While at Le Massif de Charlevoix, be sure to also dine at Camp Boule buvette de montagne. Located at the top of the mountain, it features a menu of delicious and friendly dishes created by chef David Forbes, who has worked at some of the best restaurants in Quebec. Try the gnocchi poutine for lunch or dine on leg of lamb or grilled beef for dinner. After lunch (and only if it’s not too late that the sun will set), work off your meal by taking one of the hiking trials back to the base of the mountain. There are more than 20 km of trails, with options to suit all skill levels — making it a perfect option for families with kids.
WHERE TO STAY
No trip to this corner of the region would be complete without visiting Club Med Québec Charlevoix — whether for a day or several — and exploring this haven of relaxation and adventure.
Throughout the year, the all-inclusive property offers 24 included and eight on-demand activities. Those include its several different pool offerings, whirlpool baths, 35 hours of different types of yoga and meditation per week, and cardio and weight training facilities, and self-guided and guided hiking tours of the mountain.
There is also the Club Med Spa by Sothys that offers several treatments, trapeze and circus lessons for children and adults, and nightly entertainment shows in the resort’s main event space. The resort features two restaurants — Le Marché Restaurant with its buffet offerings and a la carte Le Chalet Restaurant — and three bars.
Club Med Québec Charlevoix also offers deals combining stays at the resort with packages that include Camp Boule buvette de montagne, The Mechanical Bird and the Train de Charlevoix, which travels along the coast of the St. Lawrence River from Quebec City to Petite-Rivière-Saint-François (during certain times of the year), Baie-Saint-Paul and La Malbaie from May 24 through Dec. 1.
Other accommodations in the area include the chalets, cabins, apartments and houses available for rent at Le Massif de Charlevoix, the rooms at Auberge le Four à Pain — conveniently located in the heart of Petite-Rivière-Saint-François — the four-season and eco-luxurious domes at Dômes Charlevoix and the chalets with private spas and terraces at Momentôm Refuges Nature.
Visit tourisme-charlevoix.com for more ideas on what to see and do in the Petite-Rivière-Saint-François area and the Charlevoix region.