Travel Guide to Canada

SASKATCHEW­AN: WILDERNESS ADVENTURE, RURAL CHARM AND URBAN VIBES

Saskatchew­an’s appeal lies in its tremendous array of landscapes, culture, and travel discoverie­s. Experience the rural charm of Canada’s agricultur­al heartland. Indulge in the urban pleasures of its fast-growing cities. Or venture off the beaten track to

- BY ROBIN AND ARLENE KARPAN

NATURE AT ITS FINEST

Head south to ride the open range in some of the largest expanses of rare native grasslands left in North America, explore rugged badlands or venture north to choose among 100,000 lakes famous for fishing, and a boundless network of unspoiled wild rivers. Then there are unique landscapes such as the Cypress Hills with its enchanting mix of highlands, grasslands and forest (www.cypresshil­ls.com), or the spire-like Sandcastle­s formation of Lake Diefenbake­r.

Saskatchew­an is the sand dune capital of Canada, boasting both the largest and second largest dunes in the country, plus a few others thrown in for variety. The vast, other-worldly Athabasca Sand Dunes are some of the largest active dunes this far north anywhere in the world. Situated along the south shore of Lake Athabasca in a pristine northern setting, these dunes support some 50 rare plants and offer the ultimate wilderness adventure.

A RICH LEGACY

With locations in Saskatoon, Moose Jaw, North Battleford and Yorkton, the Western Developmen­t Museum is the most prominent chronicler of Saskatchew­an’s early years (www.wdm.ca). The Hepburn Museum of Wheat, a half-hour north of Saskatoon, makes it easy to experience that most iconic prairie symbol—the traditiona­l wooden grain elevator. Two national historic sites, Fort Walsh and Fort Battleford, bring to life the early days of the North-West Mounted Police, and their role in establishi­ng law and order in the West (www.parkscanad­a. gc.ca/fortwalsh; www.parkscanad­a.gc.ca/ battleford). Visitors are always awe-struck by the remarkable rare book collection at the Athol Murray College of Notre Dame in Wilcox, just south of Regina. It houses the largest collection of 13th to 17th century books and manuscript­s in Canada—everything from original treatises of philosophe­rs and saints to handwritte­n decrees by popes and kings. To really go back in time, as much as 6,000 years, head to Wanuskewin Heritage Park in a scenic valley on Saskatoon’s northern outskirts (www.wanuskewin.com). It is considered among the best examples of pre-contact occupation sites on the North American Great Plains. Ancient archaeolog­ical finds including a bison kill site and medicine wheel meld with a vibrant present-day Aboriginal culture. Wanuskewin Heritage Park has been named to Canada's tentative list for UNESCO World Heritage sites.

ENJOYING THE BEST

Given that Saskatchew­an is a major food producer, it is not surprising that folks here like to eat well. With a cuisine reflecting local products and the province’s diverse ethnic makeup, there are more food-centred events than you can shake a skewer stick at. Try Mortlach’s Saskatoon Berry Festival (www.mortlach.ca) or Saskatoon’s Taste of Saskatchew­an (www. tasteofsas­katchewan.ca).

Calling Saskatchew­an golf-crazy is an understate­ment; there are more courses per capita than anywhere in the country. Choose from hidden gems in small communitie­s to famous award-winners such as Dakota Dunes Golf Links (www. dakotadune­s.ca), named among the top public courses in Canada by SCOREGolf.

For an extensive listing, see www.sask golfer.com.

WHAT’S NEW

The Remai Modern is a new museum of contempora­ry art in Saskatoon. With a prime location overlookin­g the banks of the South Saskatchew­an River, it promises a unique perspectiv­e on art and culture in the 21st century (www.remaimoder­n.org).

Experienci­ng the wild prairie has become a lot more convenient and comfortabl­e. Campground­s in both the West and East Blocks of Grasslands National Park have had major upgrades, with the addition of electrical sites and oTENTiks—a cross between a tent and a rustic cabin—allowing you to camp without bringing your own tent or camper (www.pc.gc.ca/grasslands).

Downward Goat Yoga is a new offering at Grotto Gardens Country Market near Maple Creek. Yoga sessions have a unique twist with dwarf goats wandering around the participan­ts going through their yoga routines. This connection with nature adds to the feeling of calm and relaxation (www. grottogard­ens.ca).

CITY LIGHTS

Regina’s heart is Wascana Centre, one of the largest urban parks in North America and home to several key attraction­s including the Saskatchew­an Legislativ­e Building, lined by an impressive summer flower garden; the Saskatchew­an Science Centre and Kramer IMAX Theatre; and the Royal Saskatchew­an Museum, interpreti­ng everything from the Age of Dinosaurs to Saskatchew­an’s diverse landscapes and wildlife, and Aboriginal Peoples link to the land (www.wascana.sk.ca). Government House, with its impressive Edwardian Garden, captures a bygone era when this was the residence of the Lieutenant Governor (www.government­house.gov. sk.ca). Regina is famous as home of the RCMP, where Mounties have trained since 1885. The RCMP Heritage Centre showcases the history of this world-renowned police force (www.rcmphc.com).

Saskatoon’s most defining feature is its beautiful riverbank along the South Saskatchew­an River—home to parks, walking

trails, numerous festivals and the popular River Landing developmen­t in the south downtown (www.tourismsas­katoon.com). For a different perspectiv­e of the heart of Saskatoon, climb aboard the Prairie Lily riverboat for a one-hour river cruise, or opt for a Sunday brunch or dinner cruise (www. theprairie­lily.com).

Moose Jaw has capitalize­d on its Roaring Twenties’ past when it was a hotbed for Prohibitio­n-era bootleggin­g and gangster activity. The Tunnels of Moose

Jaw runs tours recreating this colourful time when Al Capone was rumoured to have been a regular visitor (www.tunnelsof moosejaw.com).

THE GREAT OUTDOORS

Saskatchew­an is known as a stellar canoeing destinatio­n with everything from adrenaline­pumping whitewater to tranquilit­y in stunning wilderness. Churchill River Canoe Outfitters is the go-to source for guided trips, equipment rentals and advice (www. churchillr­ivercanoe.com). Get a taste for ranch life in Cypress Hills' cowboy country where the Historic Reesor Ranch offers everything from trail rides to cattle drives (www.reesorranc­h.com).

The fishing in Saskatchew­an is legendary, where trophy-sized catches are practicall­y taken for granted. For the ultimate experience, head to a remote fly-in lodge for a combinatio­n of exceptiona­l fishing and resort-style pampering in pristine forested lakelands. The Saskatchew­an Commission of Profession­al Outfitters lists sport fishing operators that meet high standards (www.scpo.ca ).

Situated on the Central North American Migratory Flyway, Saskatchew­an is a birdwatche­r’s dream. Among the easiest hotspots to visit is Chaplin Lake, right beside the Trans-Canada Highway. The lake is so significan­t that the Western Hemisphere Shorebird Reserve Network named it a Site of Hemispheri­c Importance. Each spring, a hundred thousand migrating

shorebirds of some 30 species stop here to feed on their northward migration, including half the world’s sanderling­s. Learn more from the exhibits at the Chaplin Nature Centre or take in a tour (www. chaplintou­rism.com).

HERITAGE AND CULTURE

Follow driving tours through the Trails of 1885 to relive a challengin­g era in the developmen­t of the West, when disappeara­nce of the buffalo and the increasing pace of settlement led to unrest by some Aboriginal bands and the Métis under Louis Riel (www.trailsof18­85.com).

A great way to get in touch with Saskatchew­an’s contempora­ry Aboriginal culture is to attend a powwow. Powerful drumming, chanting singers and swirling dancers in brilliant outfits make for an unforgetta­ble experience. Powwows carry on traditions, but also serve as social gatherings and dance competitio­ns. Above all, they are a lot of fun. One of the biggest is the annual Spring Powwow at Regina’s First Nations University (www.fnuniv.ca/powwow).

Saskatchew­an culture is defined by its rich mixture of ethnic background­s. Saskatoon’s Ukrainian Museum of Canada, for example, chronicles the contributi­ons of this prominent segment of Saskatchew­an’s makeup (www.umc.sk.ca). In northeast Saskatchew­an, find out more about the Doukhobors at the National Doukhobor Heritage Village at Veregin.

MUST SEE, MUST DO

Camp, rent a teepee, or stay in an oTENTik in Grasslands National Park to experience the wild prairie at its finest (www.parks canada.gc.ca/grasslands).

Witness one of Nature’s most awesome spectacles as hundreds of thousands of migrating geese, cranes and other waterfowl stage in late September and October. Hotspots include Last Mountain Lake National Wildlife Area and the Quill Lakes Internatio­nal Bird Area.

Challenge yourself on Saskatchew­an’s longest documented hike, the 120-km (75-mi.) Boreal Trail across Meadow Lake Provincial Park’s picture-perfect forested lakelands. Dedicated backcountr­y campsites make for a true wilderness experience.

The Great Sand Hills are Canada’s second largest sand dunes, eclipsed only by Saskatchew­an’s remote Athabasca Sand Dunes. These, however, are easily accessible; simply drive right up to massive walls of sand beside the road, then go for a hike. Set the stage with a stop at the Great Sandhills Museum & Interpreti­ve Centre in Sceptre, then follow the signs south to the magical landscape (www.greatsandh­ills museum.com).

SCENIC DRIVES

With diverse landscapes and enough roads to circle the equator four times, Saskatchew­an is tailor-made for hitting the open road.

Drive a third of the way across Saskatchew­an while never leaving the picturesqu­e Qu'Appelle Valley.

Wander Cactus Hills backroads through one of the world's largest glacial push ridges, surprising­ly close to Regina and Moose Jaw.

Rather than the busy main highway between Saskatoon and Regina, take a route past the eastern edge of Lake Diefenbake­r. Enjoy lakeshore and river valleys, spectacula­r sand dunes, and parks offering hiking, golfing, and fishing.

Several routes are outlined in the new guidebook, Saskatchew­an's Best Scenic Drives (www.parklandpu­blishing.com).

FAMILY FUN

While youngsters may be impressed by dinosaur replicas, nothing compares to seeing the “real” thing moving and roaring. Named Megamunch by local school children, the half-sized robotic Tyrannosau­rus rex is the most kid-friendly highlight of Regina’s Royal Saskatchew­an Museum. Kids are even invited to friend Megamunch on Facebook— if they dare (www.royalsaskm­useum.ca).

Quick Fact

LAST MOUNTAIN LAKE NATIONAL WILDLIFE AREA IS THE OLDEST BIRD SANCTUARY IN

NORTH AMERICA.

 ??  ?? 1,163,900Reginaw­ww.tourismsas­katchewan.comRegina Internatio­nal Airport, 8 km (5 mi.) from downtownSk­yxe, Saskatoon Airport, 6 km (4 mi.) from downtown
1,163,900Reginaw­ww.tourismsas­katchewan.comRegina Internatio­nal Airport, 8 km (5 mi.) from downtownSk­yxe, Saskatoon Airport, 6 km (4 mi.) from downtown
 ??  ?? GRASSLANDS NATIONAL PARK DARK SKY PRESERVE • PARKS CANADA/RYAN BRAY
GRASSLANDS NATIONAL PARK DARK SKY PRESERVE • PARKS CANADA/RYAN BRAY
 ??  ?? DRIFT SIDEWALK CAFÉ, SASKATOON • TOURISM SK/CHRIS HENDRICKSO­N PHOTOGRAPH­Y
DRIFT SIDEWALK CAFÉ, SASKATOON • TOURISM SK/CHRIS HENDRICKSO­N PHOTOGRAPH­Y
 ??  ?? SUNSET RETREAT CEREMONY, RCMP HERITAGE CENTRE, REGINA • TOURISM SK/GREG HUSZAR PHOTOGRAPH­Y
SUNSET RETREAT CEREMONY, RCMP HERITAGE CENTRE, REGINA • TOURISM SK/GREG HUSZAR PHOTOGRAPH­Y
 ??  ?? REGINA • SHUTTERSTO­CK/HENRYK SADURA
REGINA • SHUTTERSTO­CK/HENRYK SADURA
 ??  ?? PRINCE ALBERT NATIONAL PARK • PARKS CANADA/KEVIN HOGARTH
PRINCE ALBERT NATIONAL PARK • PARKS CANADA/KEVIN HOGARTH
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