Step into the past at Fortress Louisbourg
New visitor program lets you fire cannon, dress up in period costume
As a proud Nova Scotian I’ve been visiting and writing about Fortress Louisbourg for more than 30 years.
Fortress Louisbourg is the largest historical re-creation of a colonial settlement in all of North America, larger even than Williamsburg, Virginia. To use an overused phrase that for once is entirely appropriate: It is a place that you have to see to believe. Not only is the scale of the enterprise amazing, but the sheer number of re-enactors on site makes the visitor feel like they truly have stepped back in time.
This was particularly true on my last visit when I got the chance to dress up in period costume, fire a cannon and spend the night inside the storied walls of Fortress Louisbourg. Thanks to Parks Canada’s recent innovative programs any visitor can experience the same things as I did. Here’s what to expect.
Fire a cannon
Those who have signed up for the cannon firing will be met at the soldier’s costumery, outfitted with a full body blue woolen coat with brass buttons and a tricorn hat. You will be introduced to your commanding officer, given a run through of the procedure and dubbed with an appropriate name for a cannoneer — in my case, Le Terreur.
Once outfitted, you will be marched from the officer’s quarters through the gates of the Gov- ernor’s Palace and up onto the ramparts, accompanied by a battery crew and a fife and drum.
Chances are there will be lots of other tourists watching as you actually become part of the attraction. Once on the ramparts, your artillery crew will put the powder in the cannon, tamp it down and place a fuse which you will light with a smoldering wick, and the cannon goes off with a deafening roar. You are now an official artilleryman and have your cheeks daubed with black powder to prove it. All hands turn to face the crowd below, doff their hats and cheer, “Vive le Roi.” What a blast!
Staying overnight in Fortress Louisbourg There is perhaps no better way to soak up the atmosphere of Fortress Louisbourg than to stay there overnight.
Long after the tourists and the re-enactors have left, the entire place will belong to just the small group remaining and one can roam freely through the streets and along the fortress walls and ramparts. There are two options for overnight accommodation.
The first is to rent a period house furnished exactly as it would have been in the mid1700s. However there are some modern exceptions including a fridge and microwave. For those who want the lap of luxury, 18th century style, this is a good choice, but there is one catch. The house is allegedly haunted.
For the more adventuresome (or those who believe in ghosts), there is the option of staying in a tent inside the quadrangle of the Governor’s Palace. You will be supplied with a tent exactly as used by the French troops bivouacked at Louisbourg, already set up (thankfully) and lanterns, floor mats, a propane stove and a fire pit. Visitors need to bring their own sleeping bags.
There are modern washroom facilities inside a part of the Governor’s Palace that will remain open during your stay.
As the shadows lengthen, the moon rises over the fortress walls and the campfire is crackling, there is perhaps no better place in the world to experience what it must have been like to be an 18th century soldier thousands of miles away from home.
These are not the only handson experiences available for visitors to Fortress Louisbourg this coming season. If becoming a cannoneer is a bit over the top, how about settling for firing an authentic 18th century musket?
Rum aficionados can take the Spirit of Louisbourg tour that details the connection between the slave trade and the making of rum. The tour includes a sampling of Fortress Rum which is aged in barrels at the fortress. During my stay we bought a bottle of rum and enjoyed it mixed with coffee as we told ghost stories around the campfire.
If you’re a teetotaler or traveling with children, a nice alternative is the Time Travel program that includes a cup of Heritage hot chocolate made exactly as it was in Louisbourg almost 300 years ago. It is part of Parks Canada’s Canadian Signature Experiences.
The bottom line? There really is something for every age and taste at Fortress Louisbourg.