Invitation opens historical treasures
It’s easy to stand among the ancients during a visit to welcoming Orkney
Despite having good friends in Orkney, visiting there was never on our bucket list.
But when we received an invitation to our friends’ wedding, our priorities quickly changed and my husband, our preteen daughter and I were booked for an August holiday.
Orkney refers to a group of about 70 small islands on the Northern tip of Scotland, of which only 20 are inhabited. Our destination, confusingly called Mainland (and often referred to as ‘the Mainland’) is the largest island at just 523 square kilometres and home to about 75 per cent of Orcadians.
Orkney was first inhabited by Mesolithic and Neolithic tribes, then Picts, before being settled by Vikings during the eighth century. It remained under Norse rule until 1472, when it was annexed by the Scottish crown, after the failed payment of a dowry for James III’s bride, Margaret of Denmark.
To get to Orkney, you have three choices. Kirkwall, on Mainland, is a major cruiseship destination, with passengers given a day to cram in as much as they can. We chose to fly in — Vancouver to London, London to Edinburgh and Edinburgh to Kirkwall. To break up what would have been a very long day (with at least one tight connection), we decided to get over the worst of our jet-lag at a hotel near Heathrow, then continued on the next morning. It was a very good decision. On our return journey, because we wanted to spend time touring more of the U.K., we took the ferry from Stromness (on Mainland, Orkney) to Caithness, on the mainland of Scotland
As with the vast majority of visitors, our visit to Orkney was restricted to Mainland. Our touring could be divided into five categories: ancient history, recent history, Second World War, nature and the towns.
For those interested in Neolithic times, Orkney does not disappoint. Four of its main sites, as well as some unexcavated sites, have the honour of being a UNESCO World Heritage Site, referred to as The Heart of Neolithic Orkney.
We toured Maes Howe and the Ring of Brodgar. Maes Howe is a burial site, about 5,000 years old. Book your tour ahead if you can because you must be guided and space is limited. To enter, you must crouch low through an entry about three metres long. Once inside the cairn, we felt awed as the guide gave us the history of the small chamber.
The Ring of Brodgar is a circle of standing stones dating back to between 2,500 and 2,000 BC. Though not as intimidating as Stonehenge, there are 27 stones remaining from the original 60, all from two to three metres high. Unlike a visit to Stonehenge, you can get up close and personal.
Continuing on the Neolithic trail, we passed by the Stones of Stenness. Though not as many still exist, they are taller and older than those at the Ring of Brodgar. The final UNESCO site was Skara Brae. First discovered after a storm uncovered part of it in 1850, this small settlement is well preserved, considering it dates back to between 3,200 and 2,500 BC. Paths through the village let you look down into the dwellings while little signposts help you to make sense of what you are looking at.
We also took a drive to the Broch of Gurness. It is similar to Skara Brae, but a relative youngster, possibly built as recently as 200 BC as a fortification for the Picts. Here, we were able to enter the dwellings for a closer look.
Our final ‘ ancient’ site was a visit to the Ness of Brodgar, a relatively new dig (begun in 2003), where we were able to watch archaeologists at work. It appears to have been a very large settlement, likely dating back to 3,500 BC. It is likely that the Ness of Brodgar was a massive Stone Age temple complex built for religious purposes.
If you like your history a little more recent, you will enjoy a visit to St. Magnus Cathedral in Kirkwall. Construction began in 1137 using the local red sandstone. The cathedral is large and magnificent.
St. Magnus is the patron saint of Orkney. His remains, with an axe blow down the middle of his skull, were discovered in a hidden hollow in a column in 1917. The cathedral was built to honour him, but also has a connection perhaps more important to Canadians. Explorer John Rae (a native Orcadian), who explored much of northern Canada and reported the fate of the Franklin Expedition, is buried in the cemetery. In the cathedral is a life-size memorial that depicts him as though he is asleep on the ground.
A stone’s throw from St. Magnus is the Earl’s Palace. Although there is a nominal entry fee, you can then wander through these lovely ruins at your own pace. Built in the early 1600s, the palace, now roofless, still manages to maintain its elegant Renaissance style. I found the windowed turrets particularly pleasing.
Another spot worth a visit is the Corrigal Farm Museum. It illustrates farm life in the mid 1800s. It’s a wonderful museum, with no ropes barring you from the displays. We were free to walk through the barns and home and look about — sometimes followed by a chicken or two.
For Second World War aficionados, there is all the history surrounding Scapa Flow to explore. The Churchill Barriers are ‘causeways’ (which allowed the British to use Italian prisoners of war as labourers), built to help safeguard the British fleet in Scapa Flow. They were built after a German submarine got by the existing blockships (still visible) to sink the battleship HMS Royal Oak, killing 833 crew members. Just across the first barrier stands the Italian Chapel, built by POWs from a converted Nissen hut.
Of course, even if history holds no interest for you, Orkney still has much to offer. The coastline in some areas is quite striking, with fabulous cliffs. We visited Yesnaby, on the west coast, which has some amazing views.
We also hiked around The Gloup in Deerness. The Gloup is about 80 metres deep and about 50 metres long, with sea water rushing in from a narrow entrance. We continued along the trail and eventually came to a beautiful cliff area, where those of us willing to hike along very steep, narrow trails were treated to some spectacular views.
And, of course, there are the towns. We only had a couple of hours to walk around Stromness, but found it quite picturesque. Stromness is a small, hilly coastal town, full of narrow roads and tight walking lanes ( called closes in Orkney and throughout Scotland) that sneak around and about the homes.
We got to know Kirkwall a bit better because that is where we stayed. As in Stromness, you won’t encounter much automobile traffic. The streets are narrow enough to discourage most drivers. In addition to being home to St. Magnus Cathedral and The Earl’s Palace, Kirkwall also boasts the very comprehensive Orkney Museum. Any questions you have about Orkney — past or present — can be answered here.
Another highlight of Kirkwall is a stop at the Highland Park Distillery for a tour and tasting. The tour was very interesting and allowed us access to a number of the old stone buildings to see the step-by-step process of making a good Scotch whisky.
The people who call Orkney home will make you feel welcome.
As in many small places, there is a sense of community that you will be made to feel part of, as soon as you arrive.