Cookbook’s simple approach welcome
New Araxi cookbook takes less technical approach, Mia Stainsby writes
I had bushels of lavender growing in my yard, all nearing senility, so when I got the new Araxi cookbook I grazed appreciatively through the pages.
I marked the page with the Lavender Meringues with Blueberries and Mint — a timely recipe for the lavender (my closet was already brimming with lavender sachets and I’d snuck some into my husband’s as well, and given some away). Plus I had just enough egg whites for the recipe, left over from making pasta dough. The little bit of lavender in the meringue was the perfect amount, without tipping into soap flavour. The recipe was enough for eight individual meringues so I stashed a few in the freezer as I find meringues, as delicate as they pretend to be, can survive the Arctic.
My husband got in on the cooking, too, although recipes he favours usually include the word cocktail. He chose the Truth and Lies cocktail, which also called for lavender in the simple syrup. He was dubious, hesitant to waste vodka and Cointreau on a cocktail that tasted like a morning shower, but it turned out to be so nicely balanced that he made it again. On a third attempt, I told him I’d taken the cookbook to work and, alarmed, he asked me to please photocopy the recipe.
Araxi is a premier restaurant in Whistler (along with sister tapas bar, Bar Oso, just down the street) and part of the Toptable Group, now run by the Aquilini Group. (Araxi was named after the wife of the first owner, Jack Evrensel. James Walt has been the chef since 1997.)
Araxi: Roots to Shoots, Farm Fresh Recipes, appears seven years after Walt’s 2009 Araxi cookbook, which was a James Beard nominee.
This go-round, home cooks might find themselves merrily cooking from it and dog-earring and staining pages, Walt has geared it down.
“The first one was a restaurant book and with this I tried to be less technical, more approachable,” he says.
Some of the dishes are from Araxi’s annual farm-based Long Table dinner in Pemberton, others are simplified restaurant dishes. Instead of wine matches, there are cocktails.
“We thought about wine but it makes things so formal,” he says.
There are 70 recipes and many of the photos are in natural settings and portions are often for six or eight people. And they’re Whistlersized. People there play hard and they eat more, apparently.
“Totally,” Walt says. “In the restaurant, our portion sizes are bigger than in the city. We’ll have six ounces of halibut, not four. We’re feeding and nourishing, especially if it’s cold outside. People of small stature come in and eat a lot.”
He says a must-try recipe is the Roasted Beet Salad with Chickpea Caponata and Nasturtium Pesto. (If nasturtium season’s over, basil or arugula can be subbed in.) His other favourites are the Seared Wild Scallops with Cauliflower Tempura; Lamb Shanks, Braised with Carrot Puree; and Beef Cheeks, Slow Cooked in Port Wine.
“You won’t have a problem sourcing beef cheeks at reputable butchers,” he says.
And, he wishes more people would try making their own bacon. “It’s not difficult, it just takes a little bit of commitment and waiting, as it takes about a week to cure.” He provides a recipe for fresh bacon and carrots with mustard vinaigrette to serve with it.
I’ll let my larder decide. I’ve got prawns, I’ve got corn and I’m thinking maybe I’ll give the Prawn, Corn and Herb Risotto a try. Perhaps my sous chef husband can cook too — maybe Up The Creek, a cocktail that requires infusing rye with pieces of cedar plank.
The first one was a restaurant book and with this I tried to be less technical, more approachable.
Makes: 4 appetizer servings Araxi’s non-traditional take on caponata makes use of chickpeas instead of eggplant. Roasted Beets: 1 lb (454 g) assorted beets (golden, red or Chioggia), washed and dried with paper towels 3 tbsp (45 mL) grape seed or canola 3 sprigs thyme 2 cloves garlic, unpeeled Pinch of coarse sea salt
1. Preheat the oven to 375 F (190 F). Cut two pieces of aluminum foil, each 10 × 12 inches (25 x 30 cm), and place one on top of the other. Place the beets in the centre of the foil and add the oil, thyme, garlic and salt. Fold the foil around the beets and roll up the edges to create a sealed package. Set the beets on a baking tray and roast for 30 to 40 minutes. To check for doneness, remove the beets from the oven, carefully unwrap them and insert the tip of a knife into one of them. The knife should slide easily in and out.
2. When the beets are cooked, remove them from the oven, unwrap and discard the foil and set aside the beets until they are just cool enough to handle. Using your fingers or a dishtowel, rub the beets to loosen their skins. Peel and discard the skins. Set aside to cool. Nasturtium Pesto: 1 cup (250 mL) firmly packed nasturtium leaves, washed, plus 10 to 12 smaller leaves, for garnish 1/3 cup (80 mL) grape seed or canola 2 cloves garlic, crushed with the side of a knife 1⁄4 cup (60 mL) grated Pecorino Romano cheese 3 tbsp (45 mL) toasted pecans or walnut pieces Zest of 1/2 lemon
3. Have ready a large bowl of ice water. Bring a large saucepan of salted water to a boil on high heat. Add the nasturtium leaves and cook for 20 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the nasturtium leaves to the ice water to stop the cooking. When the leaves are cool, drain them and pat them with paper towels to remove any excess moisture.
4. Place the nasturtium leaves, grape seed (or canola) oil and garlic in a blender or food processor and blend at high speed for 1 minute until smooth. With the motor turned off, add the cheese, nuts and lemon zest then process at high speed for a further 30 seconds until thickened. Pour into a bowl and refrigerate until needed. This will keep refrigerated in an airtight container for 2 or 3 days. Chickpea Caponata: 3 tbsp (45 mL) good-quality extra-virgin olive oil 1/2 medium red onion, finely chopped 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped 2 bay leaves 1 tsp (5 mL) crushed coriander seeds Pinch of red chili flakes 3 cups (750 mL) cooked chickpeas 1/2 cup (125 mL) fresh cherry tomatoes, cut in half 1/2 cup (125 mL) sultana rai- sins, soaked in hot water then drained 1/2 cup (125 mL) kalamata olives, pitted and roughly chopped 1 tbsp (15 mL) chopped curlyleaf parsley
5. Heat the olive oil in a medium saucepan on medium heat. Add the red onion, garlic, bay leaves, coriander seeds and chili flakes and cook for 4 to 5 minutes, until the onion has softened and the garlic is fragrant. Stir in the chickpeas, tomatoes and raisins and cook for 3 minutes to let the flavours combine. Remove from the heat and refrigerate until cool. Stir in the olives and parsley.
6. Serve on 4 plates. Place 1 tbsp (15 mL) of the nasturtium pesto in the centre of each plate. Spread it across the plate with the back of the spoon. Top with 3 or 4 tbsp (45 or 60 mL) of the chickpea caponata. Cut the beets into slices or quarters and arrange them on top of the chickpeas. Drizzle with the remaining pesto and garnish with nasturtium leaves. Serve immediately.