GOING FROM CATWALK TO CLOSET
Topshop makes collection available the day it hits the runway, Michele Marko writes.
This September ushered in a new era in fashion. From New York Fashion Week to across the pond to London, there was a shift in what designers put out on the runway. Instead of looking to spring-summer ’17, some brave houses opted for right now — going from runway to retail immediately. Big brands like Tom Ford, Tommy Hilfiger and Burberry did it, and so did the everywoman high street British brand Topshop.
When Topshop’s collection was showcased at London’s Old Spitalfields Market for fashion week, the packed space was abuzz in anticipation of the items instantly for sale. Topshop presented an expansive range of garments with most, but not all, hitting stores that day — including in Vancouver and Toronto.
Postmedia spoke with Topshop global design director Jacqui Markham about the decision to go in this direction, and the challenges it presents for the brand’s creative approach and business model.
Q As Topshop has numerous collections throughout the year, how was doing runway to retail different for the brand?
A The creative process remains the same with all Topshop lines, but timings differ. In order to launch our first runway-to-retail Unique collection, we had to begin working on the collection six months earlier than usual so that we could factor in the manufacturing lead time ahead of the show, as opposed to after it.
Q What were the challenges in producing this collection?
A There were a lot of challenges, which were to be expected. The cycle is entirely different, and we didn’t want to create a collection that was only relevant to one hemisphere. Fabric mills mainly carried heavy-weighted materials, and we wanted to produce a seasonless range; time wasn’t on our side, as we had to begin working on the collection far earlier than usual, which meant we were designing for two seasons at once; and trying to predict which items would be the most-loved before receiving any post-show reactions and feedback from media was both daunting and exciting.
Q What pieces would you consider are transitional and can transcend the season?
A All of the silks, whether printed or plain, transcend seasons beautifully. The monochrome rose printed blouse and dress are timeless, and suitable for both day and night. For outerwear, look to the camel Milton coat, it’s a wardrobe classic; and the denim designs will never date.
Q The second part of the collection landed in October. What was the response to the first drop of the collection immediately after the show?
A The response was fantastic. Although we are still working out how best to modernize the catwalk model and make it feel as relevant as possible for the consumer, we achieved great sales from all over the world, both in stores and via Topshop.com — our customers are clearly early adopters.
Q What were the most indemand pieces from the collection?
A Everything zebra print was snapped up, and the Farley wool tailoring performed really well.
Q What is your favourite piece from the collection?
A I adore the Wiley jacket; puffers are hot-ticket items this season.
Q What trend do you think every woman should be embracing for this fall-winter?
A Bold, confident dressing should be embraced this season; individuality is the biggest fashion statement for autumn and winter. It’s easiest to achieve through pattern and full colourblock outfitting, as demonstrated by the hot pink ensemble.
Q Will Topshop do this type of runway-to-retail collection again?
A We want to be able to continue giving customers the chance to buy directly from the catwalk; we know that immediacy is hugely important. We are also aware that in today’s global marketplace seasons are starting to feel irrelevant, so I think the move to create seasonally neutral collections will become the norm for Unique.
Q Do you think the industry will move to it more widely, or is it merely a novelty?
A I think the industry is in a state of flux, which is really exciting. Every brand is trying to discover what is best for them and their consumers. At Topshop we are keen to keep evolving and experimenting until we find the perfect formula that satisfies the need of our customer, wherever she may be based in the world.