Explore the wonders of the world’s largest cave
From quaint towns to ocean vistas
We read a lot about staycations or stay-in-B. C. holidays, and with our smaller Canadian dollar, I decided I would follow the trend and spend a few weeks travelling up and down Vancouver Island.
I should also point out I have children on the island, so I was able to freeload with them for a night here and there.
I started off in beautiful Qualicum Beach. The more I visit Qualicum, the more I think it is one of the most beautiful towns in British Columbia.
I happened to be there when St. Mark’s Anglican Church was celebrating its 92nd birthday. To commemorate the occasion, they offered a night of opera arias followed by strawberry tea. It was delightful to sit in this lovely old church, admiring the stained glass windows lit by the evening sun, and listen to music.
Later on in the week, I wandered around Qualicum town centre and took in the excellent farmers’ market and the legion pancake and sausage breakfast on Saturday morning for $6, coffee included. The sun shone and gentle breezes blew in from the ocean; it was a quintessential summer experience.
Another day, I drove up to Comox for the Filburg craft fair, I had no idea it was such a huge event, with crafters from all over the island and a few from Vancouver, too. The standard of goods offered was very high and the location, on the grounds of Filburg house, was stunning. The only drawback was the crowds and parking. So be warned: it’s busy, but worth the waits.
On the way back, I veered off in the direction of Cumberland. It’s been years since I was in Cumberland, and I was very surprised it was so busy and, again, quite charming and quirky.
Cumberland has to be one of Vancouver Island’s historic gems, with a long history of occupation and charming old buildings dating back to the early 1900s. There were plenty of cafes, restaurants, pubs and a good bakery — it was easy to spend a few hours wandering around and reading the historic boards.
When you travel around Vancouver Island, one has to stop to read farm signs. Many are old and faded and nailed to trees.
I followed one of those signs which advertised “organic blueberries and eggs for sale.” It was a long, bumpy drive up the laneway and I had to swerve to avoid rocks and branches. Finally, I reached the farm yard, where a young guy wandered over to ask what I wanted. I came for the blueberries and eggs, I told him. There were no eggs or blueberries this year, he said. He was too busy to take down the sign.
I suggested it would take only a few minutes, but he shrugged. I laughed to myself as I bumped my way back up to the main road. This is the island at its laid-back best.
Another day, I went on a leisurely drive around Craig Bay. It’s said to be drier here and there are plenty of Garry Oaks and huge Arbutus trees. I stopped for coffee and a visit at Pacific Shores, while later we followed a trail for a glorious beach walk. It was a perfect summer’s day.
My second week, I headed down to Victoria. I stopped at a farm stand to pick up local berries and corn and freshly dug potatoes.
It was so nice to be in the country and knowing the produce came directly from the farmers. I enjoyed the leisurely drive with plenty of time to branch off the Trans Canada and visit the coastal towns along the route like Cheamus and Cowichan Bay.
Victoria, our stunning capital city, was packed with tourists. The buses and buggies were full, carrying visitors around historic James Bay and downtown. I escaped to a quiet street in Fairfield and ditched my car for a bicycle.
Biking up the Dallas Road, with the smell of the ocean and the view across to the Olympic Mountains, is a very pleasant experience. I love the quirky layout of Rockland and Oak Bay, with the amazing Garry Oaks and stately mansions. For me, biking allows me the close-up experience I love.
I jumped off to admire gardens, I veered off down back lanes, and never worried about getting lost. When hunger struck, I headed for the charming coffee/garden shop on MacNeil and enjoyed my break surrounded by plants — savouring the tasty muffin and even better coffee. This is Victoria at its best.
St. Ann’s Academy is another gem and I was lucky to be there for a charming baroque concert. The musicians were dressed in costume and again, the beauty of the location, with its painted ceiling and stained glass, transported me back to Austria.
I never miss a visit to the Government House and garden when I’m in Victoria. This year was even better, because we had lunch at the Stables Cafe. We sat outside, surrounded by Garry Oak trees with distant views of the Juan de Fuca straights. My four-year-old grandson Callum drank his tea from a fancy china cup — his Scottish great grandmother would have approved.
Victoria is home to a huge variety of coffee shops. Some are very quirky and often discovered in unexpected places. I found a little café with an eclectic menu opposite Windsor Park. It had a delightfully shady patio at the back, perfect for coffee and a read of the Oak Bay paper.
I enjoy downtown Victoria, too — it’s fairly compact with a wonderful variety of small shops and a thriving Chinatown.
The alleys, lanes and narrow passageways in the downtown are filled with little cafes, bakeries and novelty shops, and it’s a fun place to wander. I highly recommend the neighbourhoods like Fairfield, Oak Bay and James Bay.
Victoria, our stunning capital city, was packed with tourists. The buses and buggies were full carrying visitors around historic James Bay and downtown.