ROASTED AND GRILLED PORK RIBS WITH QUINCE GLAZE
Grill Smoke BBQ is an instructive volume with a wealth of recipes for those seeking the kiss of smoke. British chef and author Ben Tish developed this unique collection of breakfast, tapas and mains as head chef at London’s highly-regarded, Spanish-influenced restaurant Ember Yard, though he has since left. You’ll need a lump of oak or beech hardwood.
3 lbs (1.4 kg) pork ribs
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1½ tbsp (22.5 mL) coarse sea
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salt
10 black peppercorns
3 bay leaves
7 oz (200 mL) quince paste a.k.a. membrillo
¼ cup (60 mL) white balsamic vinegar
¼ cup (60 mL) dark brown sugar
Preheat oven to 350°F (180°C). Place ribs in a large roasting pan and add 3 quarts (3 L) water. said to be still moving when it arrives at the kitchen. There is a fine selection of Tinhorn Creek wines, including older vintages, and a solid beer list for those hot afternoons.
I spent a morning, too, at Martin’s Lane Winery in West Kelowna, another member of the growing Von Mandl Family Estates, that include Mission Hill, CedarCreek, Checkmate Winery and various vineyards. Stir in salt, peppercorns and bay leaves. Cover with foil, transfer to oven and cook until ribs are soft and tender, about 1 ½ hours. Remove the ribs from pan and leave to cool for an hour. Meanwhile, in a saucepan over low heat, combine quince paste, vinegar and sugar with 1¼ cups (310 mL) water and stir until quince paste has completely melted.
Preheat barbecue and prepare for direct and indirect cooking. Place wood onto charcoal to start smoking. Brush ribs with glaze and place over direct heat. Cook for 2 minutes on each side before moving ribs to the indirect heat zone and basting with glaze. Close lid and continue to cook ribs, turning and basting them every 3 minutes or so, until they are glazed and lightly charred with a good crust.
Makes: 4 servings
Owner Anthony von Mandl named Martin’s Lane after his father, and has built one of the most remarkable winery facilities I have seen anywhere in the world, and I‘ve visited hundreds of them worldwide.
The winery is not open to the public and will likely only be available by appointment, but we will have more to come on this property shortly, including its tight-knit lineup of Pinot Noir and Riesling labels. This place is special.
Speaking of VMF Estates, Checkmate is getting a pop-up tasting room designed by architect Tom Kundig (Mission Hill and Martin’s Lane).
The umbrellas were going in last week and it should ready to go shortly.
The all-glass tasting room and storefront on the Golden Mile Bench has a spectacular Upper Bench Limited Release Riesling 2016, Okanagan Valley, $23
A linear aromatic white with ripe pear, green apple, white peach and pink grapefruit that will tame the strong flavours of this dish.
270-degree view of the south Okanagan, allowing you to see all the vineyards whose fruit ends up in the Checkmate wines.
Finally, I visited Terravista Vineyards in Naramata, where I spent 90 minutes in the tasting room without seeing a single visitor.
Strange when you consider that, label-for-label, it may be the single best small producer in the valley.