CHARMING HEEL SETS EASY PACE
Make like a local in Italy and discover joys of Puglia
It may be known as the heel of Italy, but Puglia, on the southeastern tip of the country, has plenty to offer those wanting to take a tip from the locals and veer slightly off the usual tourist trail.
Italians have long headed to the peninsula for the unspoiled coast, peppered with stone villages seemingly cascading toward the sea, and mouth-watering food in the region rumoured to have more olive trees than people.
Lecce, about 150 kilometres southwest of Bari (where there’s a major port and airport), is known as the Florence of Puglia.
The baroque walled town stretches out from the picturesque Piazza Sant ’Oronzo, with the remains of a second-century Roman amphitheatre at its heart.
You won’t find the galleries and markets of Florence here, but there are windy, narrow streets where at first blush it’s easy to get lost. And, to be honest, who cares which way they lead when old, rustic charm is all around.
Meandering the streets allows for discovery — as if by accident. Numerous little boutiques, cafés and bars are often in the vicinity of a piazza. Plus, one of the old arched gateways to the city, decorative stonework or historical chiesa (church) is always nearby.
Basilica St. Croce is the must-see. It was built over a 100-year period in the mid-16th century and features classical columns, carvings and marble throughout. It is indeed impressive and not to be taken too lightly (a trio of chattering signoras were scolded by clergy).
The Palazzo del Governo (the seat of the local government) is next door and the courtyard leads to a beautiful, formal garden. A fountain, green space and civilized walking paths create a refreshing respite.
To get another historical glimpse of the city, you can visit Lecce’s castle, dating to the Middle Ages. It was updated by Charles V in 1539 in an effort to keep the Turks at bay. The main courtyard has some Roman ruins and the somewhat cavernous building occasionally has an art exhibit.
The city, with a population of about 95,000, also has a museum with 10,000 years of Puglian history. In the past, the Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Normans and Spaniards have all left their mark on the strategic region of the Mediterranean.
Today, Lecce is a fine base from which to explore the area.
The brave visitor could rent a car. Those who may be daunted by the narrow, winding streets and fast drivers can opt either for a small tour (organized through the tourist centre), or take a train (making sure to allow for plenty of time as the train stations are usually on the outskirts of towns).
Otranto, 47 kilometres southeast of Lecce, is a beautiful, historic, seaside town. The clear turquoise waters of the Adriatic Sea may beckon, but it’s also worth exploring the small community.
Italians will insist on a visit to the Romanesque cathedral, which was built by the Normans in the 11th century. It has a massive mosaic floor, featuring the Tree of Life alongside biblical and astrological motifs.
In the chapel, to the right of the main nave, is a macabre display of the skulls and bones of 800 Christians who refused to convert to Islam when the Ottoman Turks invaded in 1480.
It’s a bit of a shocker, but once you’re outside again, the sun and the ocean soon banish any thoughts of a dark past.
Heading south along the Adriatic coast is Castro. Stop for some seafood (you may find a delicious five plate deal for seven euros) at the top of the hill to enjoy the views, or chill on the rocks at the sea’s edge, looking up at the handful of sunbleached buildings.
You may well want to linger in either of these places, but if you venture to the southernmost tip, you’ll reach Santa Maria di Leuca, where the Adriatic and Ionian seas meet.
If you have the time, it’s a great place to explore the sea grottos or to take a sailing trip.
The next stop along the coastline is Gallipoli, which is divided into Greek and Italian sections. With a population of about 32,000, it’s the biggest little town around.
This is the port that was used to ship olive oil — for lighting, not eating — to Naples, Paris and London in the 16th and 17th centuries and it still has more hustle and bustle than its neighbours.
While the Salento coast, as it’s known, is stunning, it’s worth exploring the interior as well.
Ostuni, about 80 kilometres northwest of Lecce, is known as the White City and it looks like a Greek island transplanted and draped across the top of a hill.
From the train station, it’s a rickety bus ride up cobbled streets to get to the medieval walled city.
Geraniums and potted plants adorn the walls of the whitewashed buildings — and it’s wonderful to walk through the labyrinth of alleyways, archways and steps.
The main route climbs the narrow stone streets, past little shops with olive oil, pottery and the like, to Ostuni’s 15th-century cathedral.
And with the sun beating down it’s the perfect place to cool off with some gelato.
Step outside the maze and walk around the walled city. Olive trees carpet the land below and in the distance shimmers the blue Adriatic.
The area’s restaurants don’t disappoint either. Whether it’s a quick slice of pizza, a delicious bowl of sautéed mussels (with requisite bread to thoroughly savour the sauce) or a tapas-style meal later in the evening (the locals tend to eat around 9 p.m.), the food is fresh and flavourful and provides plenty of sustenance.
There’s certainly no shortage of places to explore in the region. And with the tourist season running from June to September, it’s easy to organize activities such as cooking classes, cycling, diving and a variety of tours.
Earlier or later in the year won’t have quite as much on offer, but it’s a perfect time to set off on your own to explore the simple pleasures of the area.