HOME SUITE HOME
The feel is warm and elegant at North Vancouver’s Green on Queensbury
Lunch at Pelican Pub is a must— it’s one of those happy places where you can go barefoot and sink your toes in the sand while enjoying a bowl of steamers and a tower of onion rings.
Next stop is Newport, the Dungeness crab capital of the world. Bring a bucket to build sandcastles, or weather permitting, pop into the Kite Company. At Local Oceans Seafoods almost everything on the menu comes from Newport Docks across the street. It doesn’t get much fresher, unless you bring the cooler and cash and join a free “Shop at the Dock” tour that connects seafood lovers with commercial fishers.
Florence and points south are all about sand dunes and sea lions. Billed as home to the world’s largest stellar sea lion den, the Sea Lion Caves are accessible only by an elevator ride down to a massive window overlooking these animals in their natural habitat. From underground to far above sea level, we pulled the car over at several viewing points for jaw-dropping views and photo ops, including Cape Perpetua, which is the highest scenic outlook at 800 feet above sea level. It’s here where you can really get a feel for the rugged and awesome Oregon Coast.
Florence is the gateway to Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area, so strap yourself into a dune buggy and laugh and scream like you’re on a roller coaster. How about a sleepover in a lighthouse? Perched150 feet above the sea, Heceta Head Lighthouse is also a B&B.
By day three, some exercise was required. Just south of Florence, C&M Stables offers a variety of horseback rides and 50 horses to match everyone’s ability. Our conscientious guide took us, clipclopping along, through the dunes to a misty beach, which is pretty much accessed only by horseback.
You’ve got to visit Eugene if only for dinner at the Oregon Electric Station, originally built in 1914 as a train station. We slid into one of the antique railroad cars and settled on more steamers and salmon and S’mores cake. From Eugene we headed inland, stopped at Red Hills Market for pizza and refilled our cooler with local cheeses and snacks for a trip through wine country.
With 200 wineries within a 30-minute drive, it’s tough to decide on where to taste. We read that Stoller Vineyards is the first LEED Gold Certified winery in the world, and it was a good choice. As we gazed over acres of vineyards, heard nothing but songbirds, and tucked into our picnic with a gorgeous Pinot noir, all was right with the world.
In the heart of Willamette Valley is the Vintages Trailer Resort and our 1965 Boles Aero, parked next to a 1959 Airstream. For someone who doesn’t camp, it was a bit cramped, but fun nonetheless. Each trailer comes with a propane grill and everything you need to cook dinner, including a wine opener. But we heard so much about Nick’s Italian Café in McMinnville we had to go. No wonder the winemakers discuss their grapes here over homestyle pasta. And if you’re fond of quirky, check out McMenamins Hotel Oregon. Actually, it’s almost creepy, which, of course, is their intention. After a brief walk down its halls, the walls heaving with eerie art and spooky portraits with eyes following you, we made our way up to the rooftop lounge for jalapeno margaritas and found out that the place is alien central: the UFO festival is held here every May. Of course.
Our last night was South-East Portland and Tiny Digs Hotel, a refreshing change from hotels. Individually and tastefully decorated, I had the “Beach House” and my friend glamped in the “Gypsy Wagon.” And talk about attention to detail: the charming owners know that every inch counts in small spaces.
We had planned on dinner downtown but loved our new digs and the cool Kerns neighbourhood, starting at the Stammtisch for German beer and ending at Fifty Licks, arguably the best ice cream in Portland. And all within a few blocks.
Before catching the train home, we drove to Washington Park, home to the world-famous Japanese Garden and International Rose Test Garden. If you only have time for one stop, this is it. Next trip will have to be two weeks.