Vancouver Sun

FRANCE, FROM THE SEINE AND BEYOND

River cruise offers unique experience of fabulous country

- AARON SAUNDERS

From the Danube to the Rhine, some of the most memorable experience­s I’ve had have been on river cruises with Tauck (tauck. ca). The Connecticu­t-based company, which also offers land and small-ship tours, prides itself on its all-inclusive nature and uncommon experience­s, and its river cruises are among the very best in Europe.

I joined Tauck’s ms Sapphire in Paris recently to get a first-hand look at its 10-day Rendezvous on the Seine river cruise itinerary. With calls on Rouen, Honfleur, Caudebec-en-Caux, Les Andelys and Vernon, plus a day dedicated to visiting the D-Day landing beaches in Normandy, this river cruise offers plenty of cultural and historical pull. And at every step of the way, Tauck offered up plenty of evidence that how you see the world really matters.

Start with Paris. Tauck puts you up at the Hotel Pullman Paris Tour Eiffel — literally a block from the Eiffel Tower. They give you a balcony room that faces said tower. To top it off, a private welcome dinner is held on the hotel’s 10th floor, complete with a sunset Champagne toast to the start of the trip and France’s famous City of Love.

Tauck gives guests three full days to explore Paris on this itinerary, including ample free time to discover the city on your own. You can opt out of the included excursions at any time (Tauck never sells optional journeys on its river cruises), but why would you when visits to the Louvre, the Musee d’Orsay, and Versailles are on the menu?

The river cruise on the Seine starts in great fashion, with a Champagne sail away up on deck when weather permits. Tauck’s 361-foot- (110-metre) long ms Sapphire (also known as the Swiss Sapphire) was totally refurbishe­d last winter from stem to stern, and the results are striking. Tauck actually took the overall passenger complement down to just 98 guests in order to add 20 new Category 6 staterooms that measure 225 square feet (20.9 square metres) apiece. I occupied one of these spacious rooms, and was impressed at the level of detail and craftsmans­hip Tauck put into them.

Category 6 (and Category 7) rooms now feature enlarged, marble-clad bathrooms complete with rainfall showers; a proper sitting area with a full-sized table and two chairs; a super-comfortabl­e bed; North American, European and USB power outlets; brand new lighting throughout; in-room Nespresso machines; and totally redesigned lighting that provides half a dozen different modes.

With just 98 guests on a ship that would hold up to 140 on any other line, there’s no competitio­n for anything. The ship’s classy, wood-panelled lounge and dining room always feel spacious and uncrowded, and the ms Sapphire even boasts an alternate dining venue (Arthur’s) that’s positioned facing the stern on Deck 3. Open from 11 a.m. until 11 p.m. daily, it serves up more casual fare on a fixed menu, plus some incredible views. It sounds awful to say this, considerin­g we were cruising in France with its many culinary delights, but the made-on-board hamburger was a runaway hit.

That doesn’t mean you’re going to lack for immersive cultural experience­s. Three Tauck tour directors travelled with us, all of whom spoke fluent French, and two of whom called France home. Over the course of a week, we were treated to a private dinner and cocktail reception at a French chateau near Rouen; a full-day tour of the D-Day beaches; visits to the quaint seaside towns of Etretat and Honfleur; fresh, locally caught seafood served buffet style up on deck; and a private early morning tour to Monet’s home and gardens in Giverny. At sunrise. Without the crowds.

While the Seine season is over for this year (the ms Sapphire sails its last voyage for 2017 as I type this), Tauck starts up its 2018 departures on April 3. Sailings continue right through October of next year, and Tauck is really ramping up some of the special features. New for next year will be a private, after-hours visit to the Louvre on most departures, and a new excursion to Caen to see the Memorial de Caen, widely regarded as one of the best Second World War museums in France. Making an already great experience on the Seine even better for the coming year: that’s travelling well.

Happy cruising.

Visit portsandbo­ws.com, sponsored by Expedia CruiseShip­Centers, 1-800-707-7327, www.cruiseship­centers.com, for daily updates on the latest cruise news, best deals and behind-the-scenes stories from the industry. You can also sign up for an email newsletter on the site for even more cruise informatio­n. Aaron Saunders may be contacted directly at portsandbo­wsaaron@gmail.com

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 ?? AARON SAUNDERS ?? Tauck’s Rendezvous on the Seine river cruise offers a full cultural immersion of France’s Normandy region. Aboard the ms Sapphire, just 98 guests occupy a ship that would hold 140 on many other lines.
AARON SAUNDERS Tauck’s Rendezvous on the Seine river cruise offers a full cultural immersion of France’s Normandy region. Aboard the ms Sapphire, just 98 guests occupy a ship that would hold 140 on many other lines.
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