Whistler has changed, but retains small-town vibe
“We were cold and wet and cramped. We loved it,” says Shay Hilliard, remembering Whistler back in 1985.
“When you got inside the fourseater gondola, the lift attendant had a big key that locked the door with a clunk. We rode that aluminum box up to mid-station and changed to an even slower-moving red chair. It was great.”
Every ski resort has a mountain and a way to get up it, but it’s the details that make a resort great. While the breathtaking scenery remains the same, pretty much everything else has changed at Whistler Blackcomb, including the gondola.
Mayor Nancy Wilhelm-Morden has witnessed those changes since 1973, when she came here to visit her boyfriend. “He had a summer job logging at Alta Lake — now called Whistler — and decided to join the UIC ski team, so I called my parents in Ontario and said I wasn’t coming home,” says Wilhelm-Morden.
When she moved here, there were only about 600 permanent residents.
“The provincial government recognized that Alta Lake had fabulous skiing and they had the foresight to turn it into a destination ski resort,” she says. “Even though the population has grown to 12,000 residents and up to 60,000 visitors during peak season, Whistler still has that small-town vibe. Lost Lake is a five-minute walk from our pedestrian village and we are surrounded by forest. Whistler isn’t just about skiing and snowboarding.”
Hilliard says out-of-town friends are always “blown away by the scenery and the happening village.”
“I come here at least a few days every year, and there was never a time that I couldn’t ski. Even when the Pineapple Express rolls in and it rains, there’s so much to do. Cross-country skiing the Callaghan Valley and Olympic Park is excellent.”
The trails are suited for all levels of ability, dogs are welcome, and the mountain views are incredible.
For more thrills besides downhill, how about bobsledding? Just before she became mayor in 2012, Wilhelm-Morden tried it for the first time. “Just when you think it can’t go any faster, you go faster,” she says, laughing. “We were all screaming — I highly recommend it.”
Slower-paced but a blast is RZR Wilderness Ride with the Adventure Group. No matter the season they’ll take you on a ride that ends with breathtaking scenery.
Their 4x4s are swapped with snowmobiles at the end of November.
If you aren’t on a budget, Tania Sear with Tourism Whistler recommends heli-skiing, and you don’t need to be an expert skier. A guide will take you back-country, but first be prepared. She advises a proper avalanche course such as that provided by Mountain Skills Academy. “It’s definitely an investment, but it’s an incredible way to experience the mountains,” says Sear.
The resorts alone are dreamy. While the Fairmont Chateau Whistler is pricey, there are some great perks and the breakfast buffet alone is worth the splurge. Its pastry wagon heaves with buttery pastries and signature doughnuts. But first grab a plate at the madeto-order egg station and carvery station, which may satisfy your appetite until dinner.
If you prefer to DIY, the Pan Pacific Whistler Mountainside suites have fully equipped kitchens, private balconies with stunning views and a bonus: families can save a bundle with kids under 18 complimentary.
Whistler has a flurry of activities apres. Start with a cocktail at the Fairmont’s swanky Mallard Lounge, where picture windows showcase the snowy scene.
Dubh Linn Gate Irish Pub is a local favourite with its terrific live music and renowned selection of draft and craft beers, and dance till the wee hours.
If you need to recuperate the next day, walk the road of relaxation at Scandinave Spa; from eucalyptus steam room to heated outdoor pools to cold plunge pools.
A major part of experiencing Whistler is the food, and foodie heaven starts at Bar Oso, followed by dinner just around the corner at Araxi. Sidle up to this little Spanish tapas bar and get a few pointers on presentation as chef Jorge assembles plentiful charcuterie boards and expertly slices and dices paper-thin scallop crudo and albacore tuna while perusing the menu and sipping expertly mixed cocktails. Over at Araxi, wine director Samantha Rahn offers superb pairings with a menu that changes to keep things fresh and locally sourced. After the first course we were plotting another visit before heading home.