HEARTWARMING WINES OF WINTER
Choose from plenty of rich, full-bodied reds to satisfy your palate and keep the chill off
The wines of winter conjure up images of richness, big flavours, and plenty of tannins replete with warming levels of alcohol.
They are the kind of wines that can take a bite out of the cold, wet weather here on the coast or the dry, cold, snowy weather further inland. What big reds do best is warm you up and take on the heartiest menu items that accompany winter.
With winter in mind, we explore some key varietals and blends responsible for some of the world’s richest, most powerful red wines.
There are several grapes capable of making big wines, but there are also some winemaking techniques that can pump up a wine. Remember, thick-skinned grapes (usually found in warm climates) have all the ingredients to make a big wine, especially if the winemaking involves lots of skin contact and lengthy maceration before, during and after fermentation.
We offer this handsome selection of big reds from the international community and some local labels grown mostly in the warm south Okanagan to get you through the long dark months before spring returns.
Cabernet Sauvignon: It’s safe to say Cabernet Sauvignon is the king of the big reds. Not only is it rich and powerful, but it has all the right attributes to age in the bottle, adding further complexity to its weight and structure.
Top picks are found in California, Chile, Argentina, Australia and, to a lesser extent, Spain, South Africa and the Okanagan. Climate change is redefining this variety, and the list may look a lot different in 20 years.
California dominates the Cabernet Sauvignons in the B.C. market and 2012, 2013 and 2014 were all fine vintages in western North America. Our picks include Liberty School Cabernet Sauvignon, Paso Robles 2014 ($21.99), Rodney Strong School Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County 2014 ($24.99), Louis Martini Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2013 ($32.99), and Freemark Abbey Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley 2013 ($52.99).
The Chilean style is a little tighter and more savoury: Concha Y Toro Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo Valley 2015 ($24.99) and its big brother Concha Y Toro Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon, Maipo Valley 2013 ($86.99).
Locally, the best Cabernet Sauvignons we have tasted this year include Black Sage Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Okanagan Valley 2015 ($24.99), and Quails’ Gate Cabernet Sauvignon, Okanagan Valley 2013 ($27).
If you are fan of big Down Under reds we say go big and reach for the Hickinbotham Cabernet Sauvignon McLaren Vale 2014 ($89.99). For the more modest budgets there is nothing wrong with the legendary Wynns Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra 2014 ($31.99). Syrah: Syrah is another grape that can make structured, full-bodied reds that can age, but the style can vary widely depending upon the temperature of the growing region. New World Shiraz/Syrah from Australia, Chile, California, Washington state, Argentina, South Africa and even B.C. tends to be rich and intense with flavours of blackberries and damson plums, and you can add some smoky bacon, black pepper, mocha, coffee and vanilla to the list.
The European version, particularly the Rhone Valley (and sometimes in Canada), generally presents drier and more tannic, meaty white pepper characters. The cooler the site the more complex it makes the floral and white pepper characters that add finesse and elegance. Certainly, that’s the case with many B.C. labels.
Among the cooler versions, we like the Chapoutier CrozesHermitage 2015, Rhone Valley ($26.49) and the Paul Jaboulet Crozes-Hermitage Thalabert 2013, Rhone Valley ($56.99).
There are several local producers competing at an elevated level and you can take your pick of excellent bottles that range from $25 to $60 out of Le Vieux Pin, Laughing Stock, Painted Rock, Quails Gate, Bartier Bros. and Clos du Soleil.
If the big blowsy Oz style is your thing, we highly recommend the John Duval Entity Shiraz 2014, Barossa Valley ($62.99), Ochota Barrels I am the Owl Syrah 2014, Adelaide Hills ($42.99) and Two Hands Bella’s Garden Shiraz 2014, Barossa Valley ($78.99). Nebbiolo: Nebbiolo, the grape behind Barolo and Barbaresco, is inherently tannic. Yet with time or in the hands of the gifted it can develop an elegance and power few other red wines match. It doesn’t hurt the Nebbiolo grape has never really adapted to any region outside of Piemonte with any consistency. The best are not cheap, so get your chequebook out. We like Damilano Barolo Cannubi 2011 ($99.99), Macarini Barolo Brunate 2011 ($62.99), and Fontanafredda Barolo Serralunga d’Alba 2012 ($44.99). Priorat: The wines of Priorat have been around since the 1100s but they have never been better than they are today. Big hardly describes the power that emanates from the overwhelming red and black slate soils in the area.
The traditional grape variety of Priorat is the red Garnacha Tinta, and it’s planted in all the older vineyards. Also authorized are Carinena, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah, and many end up in the blends. These are red wines that demand the richest foods you can conjure up.
In B.C., you can choose between a handful of Priorat reds led by Ferrer Bobet Vinyes Velles 2014 ($67.99), Cellers de Scala Dei Cartoixa ($55.99), and the bargain is Domini De La Cartoixa Formiga De Galena 2014 ($45.99).
There is another way to approach the world’s biggest wines — wait until they are fully mature. At that point the power recedes in the face of finesse, complexity and mature silky tannins.
If you are not in hurry and you have the resources to cellar wines, all the wines mentioned here will easily live to their 10th birthday, at which time big gives way to better. It’s the ultimate magic of wine.
Happy Holidays.