Wildlife in full glory for those aboard MV Uchuck III
MV Uchuck III carries tourists and cargo to small settlements along the shoreline
During a two-day maritime cruise to Kyuquot, a remote village on the West Coast of Vancouver Island, we briefly experienced a different way of life. Our adventure started with a full day’s travel from Vancouver to Gold River where we stayed overnight. This once-thriving logging town is surrounded by steep hillsides covered in oldgrowth Douglas fir and Western hemlock.
The MV Uchuck III departed the wharf promptly at 7 a.m. Since 1982 every week this vessel has delivered groceries and supplies to various small settlements on the shores of Nootka Sound. We were along for the ride while the dedicated crew worked hard at loading and off-loading goods and equipment. In 1942 the Uchuck started life as a wooden-hulled Mine Sweeper. It was substantially refitted in 1955. Mast derricks, lifeboats, cargo winches and two 500 hp diesel engines were installed. Today, the Uchuck sports two big yellow funnels, outside seating upstairs, comfortable seating downstairs and a galley kitchen from which emanated tantalizing aromas. On board were about 30 tourists and around 65 tons of general cargo.
Just as the light was breaking through the clouds, Captain Spencer sounded a single loud blast on the ship’s whistle. Leaving the harbour, we passed some seagulls perched on a log boom, a heron performing its morning ablutions and two little tugboats nestled side by side. Once underway, Captain Spencer was happy to welcome visitors to the wheelhouse which featured various electronics, a huge brass-trimmed wooden steering wheel and, in pride of place, an antique maritime telegraph.
Our first stop was at a salmon farm on Muchalat Sound where the fish were jumping hither and yon. The Captain and his crew expertly moored the vessel. Then everyone watched the First Mate off-load several skids of freight. Operating the boat’s winch and cable system is his specialty.
Setting off again, we sat back and enjoyed the pristine wilderness; the craggy islets, the wooded mountainsides sweeping upwards from sea to sky, the many miles of uninhabited coastline, the sea lions huddled one atop another on a rocky outcrop, the lone black bear foraging for food along a pebbled beach, the bald eagles sweeping and soaring above and far away a pod of whales breeching. Spotting a raft of sea otters, our Captain carefully circled around these cuddly-looking creatures as they tumbled and played in the water.
Other stops included the Kendrick Logging Camp where more supplies were delivered and the Newton Cove Fishing Lodge where a number of passengers disembarked for an overnight promotional visit. Until now we had cruised through relatively calm water. However, leaving sheltered Esperanza Inlet we headed to the open Pacific Ocean. It was an overcast day and the sea was relatively calm — just little rollers and a light wind. Chugging along at a steady 12 knots, we arrived in Kyuquot, 10 hours and 70 nautical miles later.
This isolated community whose year-round population varies from 100-300 is only accessible by air or water. It is made up of nine islands including Walters Island, where we stayed, and Houpsitas on the mainland, the traditional winter home of the Indigenous Kyuquot people. Members of our group lodged either with local residents or at Kyuquot’s only hotel.
To reach our cabin we walked along a raised boardwalk. Trees towered overhead and unpaved pathways gave access to waterfront homes. We just had time to get settled before enjoying a family-style dinner.
Hungrily, we tucked into a roast pork casserole and then gobbled up a plate of yummy chocolate brownies. Our appetites satisfied, we sat on the hotel’s patio awhile.
Ripples lapped against the beach as a small boat putt-putted homeward across the water. A rosy glow lit up the sky. It was so peaceful far away from the noise and lights of the city. We had a wonderful night’s rest.
The next morning dawned bright and clear. Elaine and Julie, the two galley “slaves”, served a delicious breakfast on the boat. We left Kyuquot early to detour to a logging camp at the end of Kashutl Inlet where provisions were dropped off for the resident lumberjacks. There was not a cloud in the sky.
We placed a couple of chairs outside in a sunny spot and revelled in the pure fresh air and the stunning scenery.
Heading back to Gold River we called in at several more fish farms, all of which operate in partnership with the First Nations people on whose traditional territories the farms are located. Twelve hours later, we walked down the gangway back on to solid ground.
Our special thanks to Captain Spencer and his crew for allowing us to come aboard the historic Uchuck III on its regularly-scheduled run to Kyuquot.
It was a unique experience.
Just as the light was breaking through the clouds, Captain Spencer sounded a single loud blast on the ship’s whistle.