RECIPE: FRENCH CHICKEN TARRAGON

Market Cooking by American chef David Tanis takes a decidedly simple and, yes, homey approach to cooking. Tanis

— a former head chef at Alice Waters’ iconic Chez Panisse

— is as celebrated for his food writing (The New York Times, no less) as he is for cooking. I like this book for its ingredient by ingredient organization and the clarity of the recipe writing. Dig in to this French classic, finished with grassy tarragon.

6 large chicken thighs

■

Salt and pepper

■

2 tbsp (30 mL) unsalted butter

■ 2 shallots, finely diced

■

2 garlic cloves, grated or minced

■ 2 tsp (10 mL) chopped tarragon, ■ plus whole leaves for garnish 1 cup (250 mL) chicken bone ■ broth

1/2 cup (125 mL) dry white wine

■ 1/2 cup (125 mL) crème fraîche

■ 1/2 tsp (2.5 mL) grated lemon

■ zest

1. Season chicken generously with salt and pepper. Let stand for 30 minutes to 1 hour at room temperature. Preheat oven to 400°F (205°C). Put an enamelled cast-iron Dutch oven over medium heat.

2. Add butter and shallots and cook, stirring, until softened and lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and chopped tarragon and cook for 1 minute (be careful not to let the garlic brown). Arrange chicken thighs in the pot in one layer, add broth and wine, and bring to a simmer.

3. Put the lid on and place pot on middle shelf of oven. Bake for 15 minutes, then lower the heat to 350°F (175°C) and continue baking for 45 minutes, or until thighs are tender. Put thighs on a platter, cover loosely, and keep warm. Strain pan juices through a fine sieve into a saucepan and spoon off any rising fat.

4. Place pan over medium-high heat, add crème fraîche and lemon zest, and simmer until sauce is slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Taste and adjust seasoning. Spoon sauce over chicken, garnish with tarragon leaves, and serve.

Makes 6 servings.