A meatless masterpiece

The crisp coating is light and airy, the chilies soft and yielding, and the cheese oozing. You’ll never regret the hour it takes to make these chilies rellenos from former New York Times food writer Mark Bittman’s newly revised How to Cook Everything Vegetarian. Recipes for Green Enchilada Sauce and Salsa Borracha are in the book, but you can use good quality tomato or tomatillo salsa.

CHILIES RELLENOS

■ 4 large poblano chilies

■ 3 cups (750 mL) grated Monterey

■ Jack cheese Vegetable oil, for frying

■ 2 egg whites

■ 1/2 cup (125 mL) all-purpose

■ flour

■ 1/2 tsp (2.5 mL) salt

■ 1 cup (250 mL) beer or water

■ Green Enchilada Sauce or Salsa Borracha

■ Crumbled queso fresco for garnish

1. Roast chilies in a 450 F (230 C) oven or place under broiler. Turn occasionally until blackened and peel off skins, but leave the stems on. Cut a slit in one side and remove seeds. Stuff chilies with cheese. Use toothpicks or a long bamboo skewer to sew them shut. Put at least three inches (7.5 cm) of oil in a large, deep saucepan. On medium-high heat, warm the oil to about 365 F (185 C). Whip egg whites until they hold soft peaks. Whisk together flour, salt, and beer in a medium bowl. It should be the consistency of thin pancake batter; add flour or beer if necessary. Gently fold egg whites into batter; some white streaks remaining are OK.

2. Dip stuffed chilies into batter to coat and immediately fry until crisp and golden brown, about 5 minutes. Use long skewers to help rotate and remove chilies or use a spatula. Drain on paper towels. Remove the picks or skewers and serve immediately with sauce, sprinkled with queso fresco.