SEA ADVENTURE
Mexico’s La Paz offers close encounters with whale sharks and sea lions
The Sea of Cortez is blue and looks inviting; except for the three large fins, slowly emerging and then disappearing into the ocean.
Our guide stops the boat and we put on our flippers and snorkel equipment, and prepare to jump in.
I know they are whale sharks and feed on plankton, but my heart is in my throat.
“Don’t worry, they aren’t curious about you at all,” says our guide.
Five of us start swimming in the direction we last saw the fins, then our guide motions to my left. I turn and I’m face to face with an adolescent whale shark, his mouth agape. There’s a moment of panic, as I stare at the biggest fish in the world. I’m in their world, and I’m uncomfortable. He dives back down, and to my right I see the fin of another one, marked with distinctive leopard-like patterns, sweep by me. We’re surrounded, but our guide is right — they couldn’t care less if we were there.
Many visitors to Mexico will head to Cabo, on the southern tip of the Baja Peninsula. But a more authentic Mexico, complete with fresh seafood, deserted beaches and the whale sharks we came face to face with, is just a two-hour drive north, in the city of La Paz.
Nestled in the Bay of La Paz, facing the Sea of Cortez, the city doesn’t have the busy nightlife that characterizes other Mexican tourist destinations. Winding cobbled streets lead to character bars and high end restaurants near the boardwalk overlooking the ocean. Because of the plethora of ocean life, the area attracts divers and marine biologists from all over the world.
There is a resort situated just outside of the town, CostaBaja, complete with a marina, hotel, restaurants and pools.
Our group joined one of the tour companies that operates out of the marina, taking wildlife watchers out to the nearby Isla Espíritu Santo, a Natural Reserve site protected under UNESCO. Locals are particularly proud that no development has been allowed on the paradise of sandy beaches, fascinating rock formations and aquamarine water. Ten minutes out of the marina, we were lucky enough to spot a pod of dolphins. Unlike the whale sharks, they seemed just as curious to check out us, playing after our boat and jumping out of the water.
Our first stop was a coral reef that also happens to be a popular breeding ground for California sea lions. The water is crystal clear, and full of brightly coloured fish, plants and crabs. The water was warm and inviting, and some of the adolescent sea lions swam over to say hello. Our guide instructed us to stay away from the colony. As long as swimmers don’t approach too close to the young cubs, the large males guarding the colony don’t mind the sightseers.
Lunch was fresh ceviche and sandwiches on Isla Partida, a popular stop with the tour groups for a break on one long, secluded beach with warm aquamarine water that seems to never end. The fresh seafood is a highlight of the area.
Steinbeck’s — named for author John Steinbeck who wrote about the Sea of Cortez — is one of five restaurants at the CostaBaja Resort. Over a five-course dinner that culminated in a main course of freshly caught red snapper, Samuel Rodriguez, the sales director for the resort, filled us in on one of his favourite activities. He and
his wife will go to one of the nearby beaches and dig for the chocolate clams that are plentiful in the area. Once they’ve found a few, they’ll sit on the beach and snack on them, adding a little bit of lime juice.
It isn’t difficult to find other fresh seafood options. Located directly on La Paz’s waterfront esplanade is Bismarkcito, and seafood is their specialty. Even better than the view of the Bay of La Paz is the casual restaurant’s seafood platter. Fresh shrimp, oysters, snails and octopus pair perfectly with the breezy, open dining experience. For those looking for a more authentic Mexican experience, fish tacos are on the menu, and they are crispy, light and flavourful.
Although cosmopolitan dining options are plentiful (the eggplant lasagna at Sorstis alone is worth the trip), there are plenty of Mexican restaurants as well. One of the best is Rancho Viejo, a meat lover’s paradise, where we feasted on tacos.
For a nightcap, you can’t do much better than La Miserable, a hip little mezcaleria with knowledgeable staff. Don’t believe the name, there’s nothing miserable about sampling mezcals.
Whether you’re looking for adventure, relaxation or a variety of good food, La Paz offers it all.