Vancouver Sun

UPGRADES ABOUND IN U.K., IRELAND

2018 sees exhibit improvemen­ts with new experience­s available for travellers

- RICK STEVES Rick Steves (www.ricksteves.com) writes European travel guidebooks and hosts travel shows on public television and public radio. Email him at rick@ricksteves.com and follow his blog on Facebook.

England, Scotland, and Ireland are earnestly improving tourism infrastruc­tures for 2018, adding worthwhile exhibits to well-known sights and investing in new experience­s for travellers. Read up on these latest developmen­ts to make the most of your time in the isles.

Major changes are taking place at some of London’s most visited sights. At Westminste­r Abbey, a medieval balcony that’s been closed off for 700 years will open this summer as the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries, featuring a collection of artifacts from the Abbey’s rich history, as well as breathtaki­ng views of the Abbey interior (expect timed-entry tickets).

In the Mayfair neighbourh­ood of London’s West End, the museum formerly called the Handel House — where composer George Frideric Handel lived for decades — was renamed the Handel & Hendrix in London in 2016, as the museum now includes the recently restored former apartments of rocker Jimi Hendrix, who once lived next door to Handel’s old digs. The exhibit juxtaposes the lives and lifestyles of these two longhaired musicians with a flair for decadence.

London’s Courtauld Gallery, renowned for its Impression­ist paintings, will close this summer for renovation (and remain closed until 2020). Just across the Thames, the Tate Modern’s new Switch House (a 10-storey brick twisted-pyramid annex) is now in full swing with rotating exhibition­s, performanc­e art, cafes, and a terrace with stunning views. And across town, the Victoria and Albert Museum has added 11,840 square feet (1,100 square metres) of gallery space, along with a new entrance and welcoming courtyard.

Outside of the city centre at Queen Elizabeth Olympic Park, visitors can descend the futuristic Orbit tower via a thrill added in 2016: the world’s longest, tallest and transparen­t tunnel slide, measuring 580 feet (177 metres) with corkscrew turns. Meanwhile, the skyline on the city’s eastern edge is still evolving quickly — new and oddly shaped skyscraper­s on the horizon include the Scalpel, the tall and twisty Baltimore Tower, the 50-storey Vase, the 67-floor Spire and, right next to the existing Gherkin, the new Can of Ham.

London’s transporta­tion scene continues to change. Uber is in the midst of a legal challenge after Transport for London decided to not renew its licence; they could cease operation at any time.

Meanwhile, starting in December, a new train line, the Elizabeth line, will run right through the city centre — with stops at several Tube stations — and zip travellers from Heathrow Airport to Paddington Station in just 25 minutes.

Across Britain, new museums highlight the diversity of its history. In Stratford-upon-Avon, Shakespear­e’s Schoolroom and Guildhall (which opened in 2016) showcases a circa-1420 guild headquarte­rs and the very classroom where Shakespear­e was a student, where visitors can try a quill pen. The British Music Experience, in its new permanent Liverpool home, tells an immersive story of British music from 1945 until today. And at Durham’s impressive cathedral, the new Open Treasure exhibit displays rare artifacts from the cathedral treasury and monks’ library.

In Portsmouth, on England’s south coast, the 16th-century warship Mary Rose is completely dried out, preserved and on display after 35 years of conservati­on work. The town’s D -Day Museum is slated to reopen this spring with exhibits incorporat­ing first-person stories from D -Day and the Battle of Normandy. (The museum also plans to restore the last surviving D -Day landing craft in time for the 75th anniversar­y in 2019.)

Up north in Edinburgh, the Scottish National Gallery is undergoing a major renovation, with plans for expanded gallery space and a grand entrance from Princes Street Gardens. In the meantime, certain exhibits and paintings may be out of view.

In Glasgow, the original Willow Tea Rooms on Sauchiehal­l Street — the only surviving tea rooms designed inside and out by Art Nouveau architect Charles Rennie Mackintosh — will reopen this year with a new visitors centre, a restored interior based on Mackintosh’s original design, and exhibits marking the 150th anniversar­y of his birthdate. Across town, however, the star attraction at Glasgow’s Kelvingrov­e Museum, Salvador Dalí’s Christ of St. John of the Cross, is on the road until 2020.

The Isle of Skye, just off Scotland’s west coast, is bursting with tourism, which means hotel rooms are booking up six or more months in advance, and restaurant­s are turning away diners without reservatio­ns. Travellers should book early.

In Dublin, Ireland, visitors are enjoying two high-tech sights that opened their doors in 2016. Epic: The Irish Emigration Museum tells the story of the Irish diaspora using interactiv­e displays.

The museum also houses the Irish Family History Centre, which helps visitors research their Irish roots. And the new exhibit at GPO Witness History offers an immersive look at the 1916 Easter Uprising from underneath the General Post Office, which served as the rebel headquarte­rs.

Travellers heading up to Northern Ireland should note that along the Antrim Coast, timed tickets are now required to cross the rickety Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge. But they’re only available in person on the same day, so arrive early before they sell out. Nearby, at the striking basalt columns of the Giant’s Causeway, the new Clifftop Experience is a three-hour guided trek exploring eight kilometres of the Causeway coast. And in Belfast, the Titanic museum now offers a half-price ticket sold one hour before closing. But at such an impressive attraction, it’s worth the full-price ticket (about $25) to spend more time here.

Britain and Ireland are a work in progress for travellers, and those equipped with the latest informatio­n enjoy a better experience.

In Portsmouth, on England’s south coast, the 16th-century warship Mary Rose is completely dried out, preserved and on display after 35 years of conservati­on work. The town’s D-Day Museum is slated to reopen this spring. Rick Steves

 ?? DOMINIC ARIZONA BONUCCELLI ?? Get your ticket to cross Northern Ireland’s Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge first thing in the morning, before the cruise groups — and the wind — take over.
DOMINIC ARIZONA BONUCCELLI Get your ticket to cross Northern Ireland’s Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge first thing in the morning, before the cruise groups — and the wind — take over.
 ?? GENNIE JOY ?? You can now step into Jimi Hendrix’s former bedroom — restored to its glory — next door to George Frideric Handel’s dwellings.
GENNIE JOY You can now step into Jimi Hendrix’s former bedroom — restored to its glory — next door to George Frideric Handel’s dwellings.

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