Vancouver Sun

YUMMY YUCATAN DIP

Pair it with a sparkling rose wine

- ANTHONY GISMONDI

Regular readers of this space will have read several columns over the last 30 years lamenting the use of the word Canada on wine bottles containing foreign juice.

My discontent was always about the wording and the positionin­g of these wines in wine stores. Labelling them as “Cellared in Canada” (CiC), allowed them to bask unfairly in the growing interest in Canadian wine and, more often than not, they were allowed to reside in the Canadian section of wine shops — or, at worst, inches away from popular, authentic local wines.

To the unsuspecti­ng consumer they were all but Canadian. The large commercial producers used similar — and in some cases the same — branding and labels as on their well-known Canadian estate wines, allowing them to effectivel­y to play on both sides of the fence while at the same time further confusing the lessthan-knowledgea­ble wine buyer about the origin of these wines. Finally, the deception is over. Last week the federal government announced stricter labelling guidelines to rein in the use of the word Canada on wine labels. To be clear, no one in the wine community ever had a problem with the blended wine category, or the thousands of consumers who enjoy drinking them; it was all about the word Canada, and the positionin­g of those wines in stores.

On April 1, producers will be prohibited from using the word Canada on their labels.

New regulation­s for blended wines bottled in Canada, from both domestic and internatio­nal grapes, will require the use of one of two statements on the label: if the wine contains predominat­ely imported juice it must be labelled “Internatio­nal blend from imported and domestic wines.”

If domestic grapes lead the blend, the label must read “Internatio­nal blend from domestic and imported wines.”

It may not sound like much, but getting Canada off the label makes a world of difference to outsiders looking in on Canadian wine, and respects the time and effort made by thousands of Canadians who worked tirelessly for three decades to build a homegrown wine identity that respects our land and its terroir. I have little doubt the damage to the latter was totally lost on CiC producers.

Let’s hope there is no need to shame wine retailers to take up the challenge to rebrand the section and move it away from the Canadian wines to avoid any further confusion. It may turn out to be an opportunit­y to

assemble one blending domestic taking origin, producers We consumers. amounts section. are the we transparen­t not foreign juice all might high entering the the of and road Now it blended ask only wine to selling Canada unsuspecti­ng and foreign that laws country with implementi­ng wines we copious of to wine are be in clear blended is tell Now to the pursue about that truth? bottles. the what’s excellence term See inside how CiC when has their easy you it been to legislated it’s forming time we out national turn of the our wine business, attention laws start that with make a national sense. register We could of vineyards be defined whose and audited. origins Imagine could every Canadian wine with a legitimate birth certificat­e.

It’s going to take a lot of leadership and gumption to get it done — or perhaps a trip to the recently held ProWein, the world’s largest and most important wine show. Wandering the endless aisles and buildings housing today’s internatio­nal wine world for three days is as inspiring as it is daunting. The competitio­n is organized, and it is endless. And it’s not waiting for Canada to get into the game — in fact they would be happy if we stayed home.

The end of CiC allows Canadian wine producers to focus on new horizons and where they want to go moving forward. To borrow some ideas from the highly successful Own the Podium program launched to make Canada a world leader in high-performanc­e sport, we need visionary and collaborat­ive leadership. We need to be innovative, to be nimble and flexible, and to be solutions-focused.

If you want a culture of excellence you must work at it. We can start April 1, no fooling.

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 ??  ?? Raw pumpkin seeds shine in this a sikil p’ak dip from Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula, with roots in Mayan culture. It pairs well with a sparkling rose wine.
Raw pumpkin seeds shine in this a sikil p’ak dip from Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula, with roots in Mayan culture. It pairs well with a sparkling rose wine.
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