DELICIOUS PLANT-CENTRIC DISHES FOR PASSOVER

Jewish vegetarianism is an ancient concept, Paola Gavin says.

Due to adherence to kashrut (Jewish dietary laws), there’s a wealth of plant-centric foods throughout the diaspora. It’s these rich and varied vegetarian dishes — from Austria, Egypt, Iran and beyond — that Gavin features in her fourth cookbook, Hazana.

The acclaimed London-based author specializes in vegetarian cuisine, and has written cookbooks exploring French, Italian and Mediterranean plant-based cooking.

“While I was researching the French, Italian and especially my Mediterranean book, I came across so many wonderful Jewish recipes. And I’ve always collected recipes — so I thought, this has got to go into a Jewish book,” Gavin says.

In writing her latest volume, Gavin delved into the culinary history of her own family — originally from Belarus and Poland — and examined Jewish traditions around the world.

“I come from an Ashkenazi background that was very meat-oriented. There are some family recipes that I’ve put into the book like bubeleh — little matzo meal fritters — and my mother’s way of preparing borscht with egg yolks and mashed potatoes, which is nice,” she says. “But I had to look further than my own particular heritage.”

In addition to 150 easy-to-prepare vegetarian recipes, Gavin includes an overview of Jewish history and culinary traditions in select countries throughout North Africa, the Middle East and Europe. She also offers background on Jewish holidays and festivals.

This year, Passover begins in the evening of March 30 and ends in the evening of April 7. The spring festival carries its own dietary restrictions, such as the prohibition of eating leavened foods (hametz), which “have produced an enormous variety of dishes made with matzo meal, potato flour and rice flour.”

Gavin suggests making her eggplant and white cheese fritada — a baked egg dish that originated in Turkey and Greece — for the observance. Add some mashed potato or matzo meal to the eggplant mixture “to make it more substantial,” she says.

German and Austrian nut cakes (nusstorten) are also suitable, and Gavin recommends her chocolate hazelnut cake for the movable feast.

“It’s very light and it’s perfect for Passover or any time of year,” she says. “It just looks so pretty. I love it.”

Recipes excerpted from Hazana: Jewish Vegetarian Cooking by Paola Gavin, published by Quadrille Publishing c/o Chronicle Books.