GARDENS OF VERSAILLES
The Sun King’s playground
When we think of visiting France, the many historical sites, museums and art galleries, as well as the exquisite cuisine and wines, immediately come to mind. A big attraction, too, are the exceptional gardens, including one so extraordinary, it’s in a class by itself.
Recently, I received a phone call from Marie-Andrée Boucher inviting me to Destination France 2018, a French travel and trade show in Vancouver this past February. Not being a travel writer, I was curious about the invitation until Boucher mentioned that a gardener from the Château de Versailles would be there and would love to do an interview about this worldrenowned palace and its many grand gardens. It ended up being a phone interview, but in speaking with the delightful Sylvain Parrot, I was able to gather some interesting insights into this amazing garden.
The Gardens of Versailles are an extension of the Palace of Versailles, situated on 800 hectares of land just outside Paris. Versailles is one of the most-visited sites in France, hosting more than six million guests each year.
King Louis XIII purchased the land from Jean-François de Gondi in 1632. Claude Mollet and Hilaire Masson are credited for the original layout and design, which remained in place until it garnered the attention of Louis XIV, who with the help of architect Louis Le Vau, painter Charles Le Brun and landscape architect André Le Nôtre, created these truly legendary gardens.
As Louis XIV expanded the Château de Versailles, the gardens evolved into something the world at that time had never seen. The addition of magnificent fountains that operated through hydraulic systems and gravity, and the creation of the Grand Canal, which covers 23 hectares, were far ahead of the times. Along with stunning sculptures, manicured parterres and an orangery, these features set these gardens apart from anything else in the world.
That the gardens have survived for over 300 years, through a series of European wars, the succession of kings, the French Revolution (1789-99), the Napoleonic period and violent storms like the one in 1870, is remarkable.
Perhaps the greatest challenge was posed by the National Convention, the ruling entity during the revolution, when trees were cut down and many parcels of land were dispersed. The gardens were saved only by the pleas of Louis Claude Marie Richard, the director of the Jardin Botanique, and his grandson Claude Richard, who suggested the parterres could be used to grow vegetables and orchards could be planted in open spaces.
These plans were never put in place, but for the first time, the gardens were opened to the public.
I asked Parrot if the gardens have a relevancy in today’s world.
“More than ever,” he said. “In spite of all the changes in society, they are very much a part of French culture. Many of the trees are 200-300 years old and were planted by highly notable figures like Marie Antoinette.
Parrot went on to explain where the focus is now.
“Diseases and storms have taken their toll, but we have a continuous replanting program, and today, we are looking for diversity, both for the environment and for wildlife. It’s a constant challenge to maintain the health and appearance of the trees by providing proper care and pruning, particularly with so many topiary trees to prune. In the gardens, we have a regular staff of about 60, increasing nearer to 100 in summer. Many of the techniques we use are the same as those used centuries ago.”
However, Parrot has developed one modern approach to manage the garden’s huge inventory of 17,000 trees — a GPS map showing the location of every tree.
The welfare of wildlife is such a huge concern these days at Versailles, although that wasn’t always the case.
“Originally native species and others were used for hunting purposes by the royalty. Today, we look to nurture and preserve them.”
Does that mean he has deer challenges?
“Yes,” he responded with a laugh, “and warthogs, too! But it’s about much more, as we are creating habitats for birds and pollinators. We are leaving many older and dying trees to increase bird and insect habitats.”
Parrot is also creating a special river habitat to bring back amphibians like frogs and salamanders.
With an invitation from Parrot to visit, the Gardens of Versailles are on my 'must-see’ list. You, too, may want to add them to your travel itinerary — they won’t disappoint.
Many of the trees are 200-300 years old and were planted by highly notable figures like Marie Antoinette.