NEW ZEALAND IS FOR THE BIRDS, AND A FEW OTHER THINGS…
When you only have a few weeks to see an entire country, it’s a good idea to focus on your interests. but even that’s difficult visiting New Zealand: How can you cram in the country’s culture, cuisine, art and architecture, and above all, its natural beauty? I based my itinerary on birding and branched out from there. with a combination of driving and flying, I was able to visit both the North and South Islands, writes Jane Mundy. ROTORUA
I wasn’t keen on driving out of bigcity Auckland with only my GPS as a navigator, so shortly after landing I flew to Rotorua, North Island’s hub of Hot Springs — and a pungent sulphur smell goes with the territory. Nothing better after a 13-hour flight than wallowing in the Polynesian Spa (go first thing or in the evening, since it gets busy). For centuries, local Maori bathed in Te Pupunitanga, now called Priest’s Bath after Father Mahoney, a Catholic Priest who in 1878 was “cured” of his crippling arthritis from bathing in the waters. It also cured jet lag!
“This must be the gateway to hell,” said George Bernard Shaw when he visited Hells Gate Geothermal Park in 1934, a historical site for geothermal springs and mud bathing, about 30 minutes outside Rotorua. Mike, our knowledgeable tour guide, led us through the bush to a hot waterfall, explaining along the way about the area’s fauna and flora and the Maori bird catching traps, but there were no birds in sight.
I learned more about fauna, namely edible plants, with Chef Charles Royal on his Wild Food Tour. We foraged in the bush for mushrooms and the Piripiri vine that tastes like asparagus as he explained Maori traditions, such as how to pick kawakawa leaves, which are used in Maori medicine. We came to a clearing where Charles fired up a little gas stove and reached into a cooler for trout caught nearby and Pikopiko taka — fiddlehead fern bread. In Maori culture, the food would usually be cooked by stones heated in a fire pit but we were in the woods with time constraints.
Just a few minutes down the road I stopped at sculptor Joe Kemp’s Te Haa Gallery, showcasing his work and other local artists in an outdoor gallery surrounded by native bush — so glad I detoured.
Back at Rotorua for an incredible dinner at Terrace Kitchen — on its thermally heated terrace — with some dishes incorporating vegetables and wild flowers picked from its on-site garden. After dessert it was dark enough for Redwoods Nightlights, a night walk under the canopy of 21-metre redwoods and the designer lights of artist and sustainability champion David Trubridge. With 23 elevated swing-bridges and living platforms 12 metres in the air, it’s the world’s longest suspended walkway. Thousands of twinkly fairy lights below look like Earth’s phosphorescence.
Blue Baths in Government Gardens must be Rotorua’s (if not New Zealand’s) best-kept secret. It’s an art deco/Spanish mission bathhouse that in 1933 offered “the hitherto unknown pleasures of mixed-sex bathing ” and not much has changed, including an antique wringer for your wet bathing suit. I had the thermal pool to myself. Upstairs, only a few people were enjoying high tea and bubbles and listening to pianist Selwyn playing Nat King Cole on a resonant 100-year-old piano.
NAPIER
I’m not keen on driving, but three hours along a quiet two-lane highway to Napier in Hawke’s Bay was lovely — around so many turns I wowed out loud at verdant green rolling pastures studded with sheep. There were more wows when I got to the seaside town. In 1931, a disastrous earthquake, 7.9 on the Richter scale, struck Napier. The town was levelled and hundreds were killed, but it was quickly rebuilt in the style of that time — again that mix of art deco and Spanish mission, and only a few other structures have been built in the downtown core since.
After checking into the fabulous art deco Masonic Hotel (where in 1895 Mark Twain stayed and has a suite named after him), I strolled across the street to the Art Deco Centre. Brocky chauffeured me around town in a 1938 Packard and we stopped at the theatre with original art deco sconces, lights, seats and more. I had a table reserved at the popular Pacifica, a five-minute walk from the hotel.
Who cares about its ocean view with dishes looking like this? The five-course seafood degustation paired with local wines was one of the best meals I’ve ever had. And the wondrous dinner at Elephant Hill Winery (the space alone is reason to visit) the following night confirmed that I want to move here.
The world’s largest Gannet nesting site is at Cape Kidnappers, Hawke’s Bay. The best way to see them is with Gannet Safaris Overland. The drive was amazing, with our guide explaining the farming operations and geology of the area. And the panoramic views! At the top, we got within a few feet of 20,000 gannets and their furry white chicks.
DUNEDIN
I flew to Dunedin, known as “Edinburgh with the lights on,” and spent a few hours with Athol Parks at City Walks. He explained how Scottish settlers introduced Edwardian and Victorian architecture that dominates public buildings and churches here, and its train station is the jewel. But I was here mainly to see albatrosses and penguins.
I opted for the Sundowner Package with Monarch Wildlife Cruises & Tours. During the onehour cruise, our group saw royal northern albatrosses returning and soaring above their hillside nests. We then saw them higher up at the excellent Royal Albatross Centre, where you can learn about a day in the life of a blue penguin.
At nightfall we headed to the beach: it was time for the Penguin Parade. Standing on the boardwalks over the penguin burrows, we could see in dim spotlights the first raft of penguins swimming ashore and we could hear the nestlings squeaking for food. What a show — it was like a performance narrated by David Attenborough.
Minutes earlier a giant petrel hauled itself onto the beach, obviously very sick or dying because it was still despite being harassed by gulls. It caused an uproar: some penguins no sooner got to the beach when they dashed back in the water; a few brave souls sprinted up the trail and the rest of them huddled, unsure. Another raft came ashore and the first lot darted over to warn them of danger. Together both groups hightailed it to the other side of the trail leading to the burrows, and here they stayed, indecisively, for the next hour or so. By 11 p.m. they reached a group decision and scampered between the bleachers, under the lights and into their homes with bellies full of little fishes for their chicks. I’ll never forget it.
My problem was only having 24 hours in Auckland before flying home. But I managed to squeeze in a city tour with Bush and Beach. I stayed at Hotel Grand Windsor (which also has a terrific restaurant), the perfect location for lastminute shopping — there’s a big grocery store one block away with a great wine selection — and to explore the waterfront. I have got to return when I have more time, and I never did see the elusive kiwi.