Vancouver Sun

RUSSIA ISN’T JUST ABOUT VODKA AND NESTING DOLLS

The country of the czars is full of friendly faces and a few surprises

- IRENE SEIBERLING

With the Russian river cruise season to reopen in just a few months — running from about May to mid October — now is the time to start setting things in motion. Travelling to Russia requires significan­t advance planning!

Why travel to Russia? For some, this choice of travel destinatio­n tends to raise eyebrows. I was a bit skeptical, but it was an experience my sister had waited 45 years to share with me. So, spouses in tow, we boarded the Viking Truvor for a river cruise that explored the many surprising splendours this amazing country has to offer — from the dazzling onion-domed churches and lavish palaces in St. Petersburg and Moscow to an array of small villages showcasing Russian traditions and artisans.

It was wonderful! First-time visitor’ preconcept­ions — such as expectatio­ns of Russian cities being grey, stoic, uninviting places inhabited by sternlooki­ng, unwelcomin­g residents — quickly changed. St. Petersburg and Moscow — at least those portions showcased for Western visitors — are beautiful clean, modern cities, with friendly people proud to share their country and their culture.

As first-timers, we were looking for knowledgea­ble profession­als to co-ordinate our trip. With the help of the top-tier staff at Viking Cruises, we enjoyed a safe, memorable experience and avoided unpleasant travel challenges.

ADVANCE PLANNING IS A MUST

Visiting Russia requires a valid passport, as well as an entrance visa, which takes time — and hundreds of dollars — to get. So be sure to allow ample time for processing, and note that you will be without your passport for several weeks as the visa is being processed.

LEARNAFEW KEY PHRASES

No one expects you to be fluent in Russian as a traveller. While local tour guides are trained to act as interprete­rs to ease conversing with local residents, learning a few key phrases can come in handy, and be appreciate­d by those you encounter. For example, “thanks” in Russian is pronounced “spasiba” and “bye” is “paka.”

If you want to be able to read signs in Russia, you’ll need to familiariz­e yourself with the Russian Cyrillic alphabet.

MONEY MATTERS

Russia uses the ruble. You’ll need local currency for small vendors and incidental­s. In major centres and aboard, U.S. dollars are accepted. Larger retailers and some artisans also accept credit cards.

For the all-important tipping, set aside the appropriat­e denominati­ons in advance to avoid the nightmare of trying to make change along the way. Your travel profession­al can provide guidance for appropriat­e tipping.

VODKA TASTINGS ARE A HIGHLIGHT

While Russian Standard is probably the Russian vodka you’re most likely to see on liquor store shelves back home, there are hundreds of Russian vodkas to taste and enjoy, including the popular Beluga Noble and Mamont.

RUSSIAN CUISINE IS DELICIOUS

Kudos to on-board Chef Danilo Mielke, who created a wonderful array of regional specialty offerings for Viking Truvor guests, in addition to the generous variety of menu options catering to different palates.

Russian soups run the gamut, from borscht featuring beef broth and beets, to charcho, a classic Georgian soup with rice and cilantro. Or, perhaps try krakovskay­a as a first course — Russian sausage with potatoes and onions.

Russian main dishes include everything from pojarsky koteletti, a pork and chicken meat loaf in a crisp crust, to kulebyaka, a puff pasty stuffed with salmon and spinach, in a white wine sauce.

Among the desserts served were sirniki, Russian curd blinis with strawberry mélange, and Russian honey cake.

DRESS FOR SUCCESS

Russia is not in the tropics, so pack accordingl­y. Dress in layers to accommodat­e varying conditions. Do yourself a favour and be sure to pack comfortabl­e walking shoes. Your feet will thank you, especially during walking tours over uneven ground or cobbleston­es.

MAXIMIZE YOUR TIME VIA SHORE EXCURSIONS

If this is your first, and perhaps your only trip to Russia, you’ll want to take in as much as possible. Organized shore excursions can help enhance your experience, ensuring you don’t miss any mustsee highlights. The only drawback is there never seems to be enough time for shopping or exploring on your own.

TRAVEL HIGHLIGHTS ABOUND

St. Petersburg is considered Russia’s most beautiful city, featuring 42 islands, 66 canals and hundreds of bridges.

Moscow, Russia’s capital, is a buzzing metropolis. Must-sees include Red Square, located in the heart of the city, the iconic domes of St. Basil’s Cathedral, and the 800-year-old Kremlin, which some will be surprised to discover isn’t just one building but a walled fortress within the city.

Scenic cruising and visits to small villages are a real treat. Exploring places like Mandrogy, Kizhi, Kuzino, Yaroslavl and Uglich provide an interestin­g view of Russia and its people.

WHAT SHOULD YOU BUY IN RUSSIA?

Vodka, of course, is a perfect souvenir. Of course, you must come back with some sort of matryoshka. If the traditiona­l hand-painted wooden dolls aren’t to your taste, there are sports and political figures available, too. Maybe consider a Trump and Putin pair, so they can glare at each other on your tabletop. Another authentic Russian item is a container of black or red caviar. It’s not cheap, but for a true gourmet it will no doubt be worth every ruble. In the market for a furry winter hat? The classic ushanka is available everywhere from big stores in major Russian cities to street vendors outside popular tourist attraction­s.

HOW MUCH DO YOU KNOW ABOUT RUSSIA?

Did you know that St. Petersburg used to be called Leningrad and that Russia’s equivalent of the Louvre in Paris is the Hermitage museum of art and culture in St. Petersburg? The name of Moscow’s famous department store is GUM. The country’s most famous poet is Pushkin. And the most famous Soviet cartoon character is Chaburashk­a.

 ?? PHOTOS: IRENE SEIBERLING AND MARLON MARSHALL ?? Moscow’s historic Red Square, set in the heart of the buzzing metropolis, is home to the iconic Saint Basil’s Cathedral. The 800-year-old Kremlin is also a must-see.
PHOTOS: IRENE SEIBERLING AND MARLON MARSHALL Moscow’s historic Red Square, set in the heart of the buzzing metropolis, is home to the iconic Saint Basil’s Cathedral. The 800-year-old Kremlin is also a must-see.
 ??  ?? Matryoshka — traditiona­l hand-painted wooden nesting dolls in vibrant colours — are a popular Russian souvenir.
Matryoshka — traditiona­l hand-painted wooden nesting dolls in vibrant colours — are a popular Russian souvenir.
 ??  ?? Perfect for a Russian river cruise, the Viking Truvor can accommodat­e a maximum of 210 passengers. It has a crew complement of about 114.
Perfect for a Russian river cruise, the Viking Truvor can accommodat­e a maximum of 210 passengers. It has a crew complement of about 114.
 ??  ?? Black or red Russian caviar can cost many a ruble, but for true foodies it is a must-have culinary souvenir.
Black or red Russian caviar can cost many a ruble, but for true foodies it is a must-have culinary souvenir.

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