SPECIAL DAY FOR THE ROYALS
Why union is relevant, radical
Some people, like Wallis Simpson, are less than fascinated about the Royal Family. She famously said, “That a whole nation should preoccupy itself with a single family ’s comings and-goings—and not too exciting ones at that — seemed to me incomprehensible.” Today, the whole world has the opportunity to be occupied with the royals with the marriage of Prince Harry and Meghan Markle in Windsor.
I’m more interested in royal history and I recently spent a few days in and around the Royal Borough of Windsor. After the royal wedding fever cools down, the town will be back to normal. It’s a perfect escape into the English countryside, less than one hour’s drive from London, and it represents 1,000 years of royal history. And here too is the famous race course.
William the Conqueror in 1070 decided to build a castle here, just a day ’s march from London. The castle has grown over the centuries by the sovereigns who’ve made it their home, including Queen Elizabeth II who spends most weekends (her office is Buckingham Palace). It is also a working castle where many events and sleepovers are held, so, unlike when it first opened to the public in the 1850s, expect airportstyle security.
If you love looking around art galleries, the State Apartments will amaze with its Royal collection of furniture, china and paintings — including some masterpieces such as Rembrandt and Rubens, Gainsborough and Van Dyck. And a portrait of Charles I’s children, just a few years before their dad got his head chopped off.
Queen Mary’s Dolls’ House is a massive construction (did she really play with it?), including a teeny tiny library, maid’s room and laundry room. It really gives a glimpse into 1920s life.
And there are enough weapons, family photos and memorabilia, fine furniture and even finer bone china from state occasions on display for a royalist fan to spend the day.
But save time for St. George’s Chapel, Harry and Meghan’s wedding venue, where the walk down the aisle passes over a marble slab marking the final resting place of King Henry VIII.
If you fancy swans, ponds and polo, Coworth Park is the ticket.
According to one guide, his body got lost under the Chapel for 200 years because no one liked him. In all, the bodies of 10 sovereigns lie here, and you too can trace the royal couple’s footsteps. If you happen to be here at 5.30 p.m., evensong is free: the choir has lived on the grounds in Tudor apartments since the 1400s and apparently the acoustics are remarkable.
Windsor is riddled with excellent pubs, some also steeped in history. The Queen Charlotte dates from the 1600s (next door is a Chinese restaurant housed in a building from the 1400s) but their menu is current, and it features 100 different gins. Go for the gin tasting and try their Gin & ’er Gin, created to commemorate the royal wedding.
After a hearty, gin-fuelled lunch (or dinner as it’s known in these parts) we strolled the Long Walk in Windsor Great Park. It is part of the Queen’s Walkway, a 6.373 km walking trail created to recognize the moment in 2015 when the queen became Britain’s longest reigning monarch: precisely 63 years, seven months and three days.
Cross over the footbridge to Eton College, where Princes William and Harry went to school. And they aren’t the only celebrities. Created by King Henry VI in 1440, 19 British prime ministers (including David Cameron), George Orwell and Ian Fleming were also educated here. And it’s the setting for Young Sherlock Holmes.
If you fancy swans, ponds and polo, Coworth Park is the ticket. After checking in to tastefully furnished rooms and soaking in a deep copper bathtub at this Dorchester hotel we strolled the grounds: 240 acres includes a wildflower meadow and polo fields favoured by the Royals.
Despite its royal ties, pomp and ceremony is unnecessary; you can wear wellies to the Barn restaurant, once the hayloft. If the price of a sleepover is too steep, consider a day pass. Swan around the fabulous spa: The Spatisserie serves healthy snacks with champers and the indoor pool is surrounded by amethyst sculptures. Lie back on heated chaise lounges and watch a polo match or even partake in the royal game, no experience necessary.
Speaking of horses, we had a hospitality box and “tipster” Anthony Kemp booked at Royal Ascot. Just before we pulled into the parking lot at Ascot, there’s a bank with a bunch of blokes in Andy Capps and bowler hats queuing for cash. I queued at the Equiano bar in the Queen Anne Enclosure for a Pimm’s Cup, as one does. Ascot is an opportunity to party and of course, bet.
“The minimum bet is 2 pounds, but let’s go down to the paddock and look at the horses first,” said Kemp. If you have a hospitality box, you can request a tipster at no charge.
He said that at 2 o’clock on the dot the Queen arrives for the famous June event. “She is very involved and owns over 30 horses. In 2012 her horse won so she couldn’t present the Gold Cup.” Apparently, she was thrilled.
That night we dined in the Vickerage room at the Hind’s Head pub in Bray, also known as “Heston-ville.” (Geek-chef Heston Blumenthal’s renowned Fat Duck restaurant is across the road.) The pub has been welcoming both Protestants and Catholics since the 1400s, when it was a hunting lodge and coaching inn.
We tucked into exceptional British classic dishes with innovative twists, ending with “Quaking Pudding” that is also steeped in history, dating back to the 17th century when it gained the name due to quaking and shaking like jelly when served. Willy Wonka would shiver with delight.
Whether or not you’re a Royalist, there’s something for everyone in and around Windsor. Bet on it.
For more information, including guided tours, see www.visitbritain.com