Tasty recipes for frozen treats
Tasty recipes for 200 homemade frozen treats that put flavour first
The world of ice cream has changed immensely since David Lebovitz’s seminal book on the subject came out more than a decade ago.
Artisanal ice cream parlours are flourishing, and machines — from hand-crank to high-tech — are continually hitting the market.
With the advent of mix-ins — creative additions including candies, cookies, nuts and fruit — we have moved well beyond the constraints of 31 flavours. Today, each scoop offers an opportunity for hedonistic customization in the form of ripples, swirls and chunks.
“I’m really into mix-ins. I love the process of making them all and mixing them in. The older I get, the fewer pleasures I have,” Lebovitz said with a laugh.
“And I love chopping up toffee or swirling things in ice cream. It’s just one of my favourite things.”
Of his eight books, Lebovitz says The Perfect Scoop (Ten Speed Press) was the most fun to write. And his ice cream appreciation has only grown since it was originally published in 2007. When the publisher asked if he’d like to write a revised and updated edition for its 10th anniversary, he jumped at the opportunity.
“In the last 10 years, mix-ins have become very popular. Part of that is the internet. As we all know, people are like, ‘How do we take this over the top?’ and I didn’t want to go over the top — I wanted to take it to the top,” he said with a laugh.
“If you’re going to do something, do it for flavour, not just because it’s fun or it sounds interesting.
“There’s a candied bacon (and bourbon) ice cream in the book. I actually love the candied bacon. I wasn’t just doing it for shock value. So it’s always flavour first.”
In 200 recipes, the new edition runs the gamut of frozen treats: ice creams, frozen yogurts, sorbets, granitas, gelatos and accompaniments.
Lebovitz retired a few recipes from the first edition to make room for a dozen new recipes, including more frozen cocktails (Negroni Slush, Gimlet Sorbet) and mix-ins.
In the midst of a small-batch ice cream boom, the most compelling reason to make your own is all about the experience.
“I think it tastes better,” Lebovitz said. Excerpted from The Perfect Scoop, revised and updated by David Lebovitz. Published by Ten Speed Press.
MANGO SORBET Makes: about 1 quart (1 L)
2 large, ripe mangoes (about 1 kg/2 lb)
2/3 cup (160 mL) sugar
2/3 cup (160 mL) water
4 tsp (20 mL) freshly squeezed lime juice, plus more to taste 1 tbsp (15 mL) dark rum, plus more to taste
Pinch of kosher or sea salt
1. Peel the mangoes and cut the flesh away from the pit. Cut the flesh into chunks and put in blender with sugar, water, lime juice, rum and salt. Squeeze the mango pits hard over blender to extract as much of pulp and juice as possible. Purée mixture until smooth. Taste, then add more lime juice or rum, if desired.
2. Chill the mixture in the refrigerator, then freeze it in your icecream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
FRESH MINT ICE CREAM Makes: 1 quart (1 L)
1 cup (250 mL) whole milk 3/4 cup (180 mL) sugar
2 cups (500 mL) whipping cream
Pinch of kosher or sea salt 2 cups (500 mL) lightly packed fresh mint leaves
5 large egg yolks
1. Warm the milk, sugar, 1 cup (250 mL) of the cream, and the salt in a small saucepan. Add the mint leaves and stir until they’re immersed in the liquid. Cover, remove from the heat, and let steep at room temperature for 1 hour.
2. Strain the mint-infused mixture through a mesh strainer into a medium saucepan. Press on the mint leaves to extract as much of the flavour as possible, then discard the mint leaves. Pour the remaining 1 cup (250 mL) heavy cream into a large bowl and set the strainer on top.
3. Rewarm the mint-infused mixture. In a separate medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolks. Slowly pour the warm mint liquid into the egg yolks, whisking constantly, then scrape the warmed egg yolks into the saucepan. Stir the mixture constantly with a heatproof spatula over medium heat, scraping the bottom as you stir, until the mixture thickens and coats the spatula.
4. Pour the custard through the strainer and stir it into the cream. Stir over an ice bath until cool.
5. Chill the mixture thoroughly in the refrigerator, then freeze it in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.