Drag queens making the makeup scene
Caked-on foundation, heavy lashes, dramatic brows — it’s all part of the queen scene
It’s no big secret that the beauty industry is, well, big business.
With annual industry sales estimated at more than $532 billion, it’s long been an area of interest for brands and investors. But the rise of social-media platforms such as Instagram and YouTube have not only served to further the industry ’s scope and sales — they ’ve also made the beauty business boom.
The hash tag #makeup has been used on Instagram alone more than 180 million times, while more technical terms such as #cutcrease and #contouring on the app number in the millions. Meanwhile, typing the term 'makeup tutorial’ into YouTube yields more than 25.6 million video results.
Influencers have turned their casual followers into devoted consumers, developed their own brands and 20-year-old reality TV star Kylie Jenner has even made business history by becoming one of the youngest, according to Forbes, “self-made” billionaires thanks almost solely to her bestselling Kylie Lip Kits.
But, while the rise of beauty influencers and the popularization of certain application techniques have both served to further a broader interest in and knowledge of makeup, it has left some people wanting the pioneers of this process to get their props.
Many of the techniques for application such as contouring (using products to enhance and define specific areas of the face) and cut-crease eye makeup (defining the eyelid by applying a contrasting, unblended line of eyeshadow) originated, not on YouTube, Instagram or via reality TV celebrities. But rather, they originated in the drag-queen community.
“You can’t go on YouTube or Instagram and watch makeupguru videos without them doing a full drag theme,” Pearl, a star of the hit reality-TV show RuPaul’s Drag Race, says. "Each and every one of these girls are caking on that maximum-coverage foundation, contour, highlight and many different powders. The glow and the cut creases, and the extreme brows and the individual lashes.
“I’m like, ‘ Whoa, you bitches are putting on just as much makeup as I put on when I do drag.' Literally. And I love it, as long as they don’t forget.”
While the New York-based record producer, artist and TV personality says the trend toward more people embracing the technical skills is “really funny and amazing,” she says the origins and history behind the trends should be properly “acknowledged, appreciated and respected” by influencers, the media and even pro makeup artists.
“I think people think the Kardashians created contouring, highlighting and baking,” Pearl says. “And they haven’t.”
It’s a general, celebrity-linked misconception that many drag queens aren’t surprised to see popping up.
“The internet is changing the way everyone is putting themselves together,” Jane Smoker, a member of the Vancouver-based group the Brat Pack, says. "Contouring is a main trend that drag queens originated and now it has been picked up by celebrities like the Kardashians. And then there’s the overdrawing of lips.
“And many pop stars are wearing wigs now and claiming they invented it. But, it did all start with drag queens. I think all the power to them, but I think they should recognize where it came from.”
The appropriation of the community ’s trends isn’t a new occurrence for drag queens. In fact, Pearl says it’s something that dates to the early 1990s.
“It’s kind of similar to the history of voguing,” Pearl says. "Nobody really knows that it came from our community. Our community knows, but the whole world thinks it’s a Madonna thing. They don’t realize that it started with some underground, New York City Ballroom people in the '80s.
“And it’s going to be like that with makeup. People don’t realize that highlighting and contouring came from the pageant world of showgirls in the '80s and '90s. That’s where we all learned all of our pop culture, really. The way that we talk, the expressions, our voguing, our makeup — everything. It has historical roots from this community.”
But, while social media is fuelling the adoption of these techniques, it’s also presenting a unique opportunity for drag queens like Pearl and Jane Smoker to use the platforms as a tool to educate their followers on the history of these techniques — as well as how to get them right.
“Social media is definitely a big tool for any artist, whether you’re a drag queen, an actor or a singer,” Jane says. "To find recognition online from people who just love drag, not for the TV show, but because they love the art and the concept we’re throwing out — this girl-gang vibe — is really nice.
“It makes me want to work harder. It’s a lot of work, but it’s a labour of love.”
Pearl, who was a hairstylist and freelance makeup artist before finding fame on RuPaul’s Drag Race, has garnered an avid follower base online of more than one million people who are interested in watching her create her extravagant looks.
“It’s kind of like painting a picture onto your face,” she says of the makeup she features on her Instagram feed. “I’ve just always loved it.”
For Pearl, the ability to transform was key to helping her find her place within the drag-queen community.
“When I got into doing drag, it was kind of the thing I worked the most on — my makeup and my wig. Because it was the only thing I knew how to do,” she says. “I used to beat myself up wondering why, or just kind of doubting myself and what I’m actually doing. Because I’m not a crazy showgirl like the House of Edwards. And I thought that was the only way to be a drag queen, to go out there and travel and be able to perform.”
She says that interest in the artistic side of makeup, coupled with the supportive interest of her online fans, influenced the type of personas she creates for herself — onstage and online.
“People love the House of Edwards and things like that, but they also love drag for the esthetic,” Pearl says. "And I’m definitely more of an esthetic-centred drag queen versus a big showgirl.
“I love retro, Marilyn Monroe heavy eyelids and eyebrows. I think that gives the most expression. That’s where I start my makeup and everything just builds around those eyes and eyebrows.”
Pearl says dramatic brows and dramatic eyes provide the perfect tool to create each drag character.
“It expresses the emotion of the character you’re portraying,” Pearl says. "If you have big, round Jessica Rabbit eyelids, it gives off a vibe versus a wide, elongated eyelid.
“You start to pick up tricks that a more useful eyebrow is thicker than, let’s say, if you’re trying to give off an older, more regal, highsociety drag vibe. Then you would do a higher, thinner brow rather than a thick, Cara Delevigne brow.”
That unique ability to transform into various personas via precise makeup application and intricate costuming is one of the things that continues to spark inspiration in Jane, more than six years since she first joined the drag-queen community.
“Most drag queens are quite unique and that’s because they create their own persona in their head and then present that to the world, which is quite amazing,” she says. “That’s one of my favourite parts about it: inventing a character and being able to present that to people.”
Pearl and Jane Smoker (along with the rest of the Brat Pack) will be taking part in an upcoming Pride event on Aug. 4 at D/6 at Parq Vancouver. Dubbed Cocktails, Canapes and Queens, the event will include a DJ set, performance by the Brat Pack, cocktails, a dessert bar and more.
“You can expect just to turn up, good music and good vibes,” Pearl assures of the upcoming event.
Along with the 'good vibes,' attendees will also get a glimpse into the tight-knit network that is the city’s drag-queen community, which Jane says is growing yearafter-year.
“There’s a very, very strong community here in Vancouver. We’re lucky to have a drag show every day of the week, which is not very common,” she says.
“Everyone goes out to support it.”
For Jane, the rooftop locale at the Parq Vancouver complex will also present a few unique opportunities for the seasoned performer.
“I’m really looking forward to being at the venue itself. It’s the biggest rooftop Pride party of the weekend. And I love doing drag outside of nightclubs,” she says. "And I’m excited for the canapés.
“You might even catch us in our high-fashion outfits eating some food — which is not very common for drag queens.”