Vancouver Sun

RAICHLEN'S PORK LOIN REUBEN ROAST

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Steve Raichlen has racked up five James Beard award on his way to the Barbecue Hall of Fame and few rival his expertise with a grill.

His latest cookbook Project Fire is a companion to Project Smoke, but you don’t have to own both to grill up something great.

The pork loin is one of those blank canvas meat cuts — mild tasting and a great foil for whatever big-flavoured ingredient­s you put with it.

One 3-lb. (1.4-kg) centre-cut pork loin

Kosher or sea salt Freshly ground black pepper 3 tbsp (45 mL) Dijon mustard 6 oz (170 g) lean pastrami, thinly sliced

1 cup (250 mL) good sauerkraut, drained well and wrung dry

6 oz (170 g) Gruyere cheese, thinly sliced 3 tbsp (45 mL) chopped fresh chives

4 strips artisanal bacon Vegetable oil for oiling the grill grate

1. Place pork loin on a cutting board. Using a long sharp knife, cut the loin almost in half lengthwise through one side. Open up the loin as you would a book. Lay a sheet of plastic wrap on top and pound the meat with the side of a cleaver to flatten it slightly. Season inside with salt and pepper and spread with mustard.

2. Arrange pastrami over one side of the pork loin, followed by sauerkraut and cheese slices. Sprinkle with chives. Fold the roast back together. Position four 12-inch (30-cm) pieces of butcher’s string on your work surface so that the strings are parallel. Lay a bacon strip across the strings. Set the pork loin on top of the bacon. Place a second bacon strip on top of the loin. Press the remaining 2 strips against the long sides of the loin. Bring the end strings and then the middle strings over the roast and tie it into a tight cylinder with the bacon strips in place.

3. Set up the grill for indirect grilling and heat to medium. Place roast on the hot grate, away from the heat and cover the grill. Grill until cooked through, 1 to 11/2 hours. An instant-read thermomete­r should read about 150°F (65°C). Transfer the cooked roast to a cutting board and let it rest for a few minutes, then remove and discard strings. Cut the pork loin into 1/2-inchthick slices and serve with Russian dressing.

Makes: 6 to 8 servings

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