Weekend wine picks
Haywire Vintage Bub 2013, Okanagan Valley
$34.90 | 91/100
UPC: 626990194170
The folks at Haywire seem to be working years ahead of the pack as evidenced by the release of Vintage Bub — the first extended aged bubbly from the Summerland winery. They laid away 500 cases in 2013, and five years later it’s been disgorged, bottled and released to showcase the magic of aged sparkling wine. The Pinot Noir and Chardonnay blend is fermented in concrete and stainless steel. A slightly deeper colour cues the extra aging as does its “gout anglais” oxidative notes that swirl out of the glass. Earth, mushrooms, bread dough and citrus drenched flavours make for a long impressive finish. Winery direct and private wine shops.
Cipes Blanc de Blanc 2012, East Kelowna, Okanagan Valley $46 | 91/100
UPC: 779000138067
We love the sharp focus and the stony, salty, citrus, mineral nose. Electric on the palate, this sparkler is built to age with a foundation of acidity that defines the north Okanagan as the true cool climate of Canada. Six years in the bottle and we feel the creamy textures and toasted lees notes that permeate its refined mousse but with an electricity that sets it apart from most of its peers. Freshly shucked oysters are the match. The fruit is estate-grown and certified organic. Winery direct.
Tantalus Blanc de Noir 2015, Okanagan Valley $27.83 | 91/100
UPC: 626990189909
From a single block of Clone 93 Pinot Noir planted 23 years ago this Champenoise ‘traditional method” sparkler opens with a feint hue of colour and a soft effervescence that captivates. The base wine was fermented and aged for six months in neutral oak and then aged on its lees two more years, gaining complexity and texture. The final product was disgorged in the spring of 2018 and bottled with a dash of 2015 Juveniles Pinot as its dosage. The nose is a subtle mix of red fruits, toast, umamilike dried herbs and guava that finishes chalky. Seriously delicious. Winery direct and private wine shops.
Fitz Rosé Sparkling Wine 2014, Okanagan Valley $42.50 | 90/100
UPC: 626990252986
When you begin with 36 months aging on the lees you have our attention. The 2014 vintage was a very good growing season at Fitz and the result is a rich, complex sparkling rose made with 100 per cent Pinot Noir grapes from Greata Ranch Vineyard. The techniques are all method Champenoise to ensure only the most refined flavours. Expect an elegant style with a fine bead, a refined citrus, rhubarb aromas and flavours flecked with stony, salty brioche notes. An impressive start and wine that will improve in the bottle another three to five years. Perfect with smoked salmon, lemon bits and green onions with cream cheese on crackers. Private wine shops.
Sperling Vineyards Sparkling Brut 2011, Okanagan Valley
$44 | 89/100
UPC: 627843118114
This Sperling sparkler is made with 22-year-old Pinot Blanc vines by the family winemaker Ann Sperling. The property has been inhabited by Sperling ancestors for some 150 years. You don’t see a lot of Pinot Blanc sparklers, although the grape is authorized in the Champagne region. It could be that in warmer years it can be a bit fat for the French taste. Indeed, this bubbly walks the tightrope of citrus and pear, with dollop of dried herbs before finishing long and rich. The richness comes from 60 months on the lees and a mouth-filling toasty finish. Ready to drink.