WEEKNIGHT SUPPER
Pair chicken with a fruity red
There’s still three weeks of official summer left but few would argue with Labour Day looming the end of the long, warm days is near. To prepare for the inevitable cool evenings of autumn and to celebrate the roots of Labour Day, we take a spin through our updated, annual list of workhorse reds you can enjoy and drink all fall.
A workhorse red should be widely available, tasty, comforting and affordable — no easy task in the modern wine business, where direct sales and exclusive deals at retails are good for retailers but create little, if any, value for the consumer.
Wine stores have become battle zones for producers, retailers and government tax collectors and unsuspecting consumers are the casualties.
Today, for the purposes of affordability, I’m going to try to stick to the under $20 mark, a task that is fast becoming near impossible in British Columbia.
Spain remains fertile territory for affordable reds led by the Mas Donis Negre, Monsant Spain ($17.99). The mix is Tempranillo, Garnacha, Merlot, Syrah and Samso (Carignan).
Think red berries, spice and garrigue-like dried herbs and rich tannins. A perfect lamb wine, or you could serve it with a piece of firm cheese.
France remains the master of the red blends, especially in the south. Languedoc is the home of value workhorse reds, and one of the best you can buy is from Roussillon: M. Chapoutier Domaine de Bila-Haut ($15.49); a rare biodynamic bargain from its fresh, peppery palate with bits of licorice and black raspberry jam to its polished elegant finish. It’s red wine for red wine drinkers.
I’m not sure there is a better bargain than the Paul Mas Grenache Noir, (Pays d’Oc, $11.49). It’s packed full of fresh, ripe, juicy, strawberry fruit flavours with a savoury, mineral, finish. From chicken to burgers and everything in between. Stock up.
Need a spaghetti red? The Fontanafredda Briccotondo Barbera (Piedmont, Italy, $18.99) is a consistent performer. Fresh and full of black cherry, anise and black raspberry fruit that comes with bright, food-friendly acidity and silky tannins.
Anything with mushrooms works here, and so will endless meaty pasta dishes.
South Africa has brilliant potential to deliver quality wines under $20, but our selection is meagre and predictably swayed toward the large commercial producers. The pick here is the Riebeek Cellars Shiraz 2016 ($12.99).
It comes from the Riebeek Valley, renowned for Shiraz wines, in Swartland, an uber hip sub-region where young people rule the winemaking. It’s fruity, peppery, meaty and balanced and eminently drinkable for the price.
From Australia we like the fleshy, spicy, smoky Shiraz from Jacob’s Creek Reserve Shiraz, ($19). The peppery, savoury, blueberry and licorice root flavoured red has a touch of that Cabernet Sauvignon structure that gives it the power to take on grilled meats, especially rare steaks.
Don’t forget Greece; they invented fun and drinking wine, and the Mountain Fish Agiorgitiko 2015 (Nemea, Peloponnese, $18.99) is all about that.
The palate is soft and round with savoury plum fruits, dried herbs, sour cherry and a pinch of blackcurrant. The perfect beef or lamb souvlaki.
See our five local picks that you might want to investigate to top up your list of go-to fall reds, but you won’t find much under $20 of similar quality. Now fire up the barbecue and enjoy what’s left of the summer before the real fall weather arrives.