Late-summer tastes are still in season

Although we have moved from late summer into fall, U.S. chef Joshua McFadden believes it isn’t too late to find perfect tomatoes, cucumbers and fresh herbs to make this sustaining salad, which is extra nutritious thanks to the chickpeas.

It’s one of 225 recipes in his beautiful and informative seasonal and local food cookbook Six Seasons: A New Way With Vegetables (Artisan/Thomas Allen, $50). The photographs by Laura Dart and A.J. Meeker are exceptional.

McFadden’s six-season count is based on dividing summer into early, middle and late periods. “Embrace the seasons and good cooking will follow,” writes the chef/owner of the Portland, Ore., restaurant Ava Gene’s.

To learn the impact of a seasonal vegetable, McFadden advises biting into it raw, then preparing it more elaborately, often with his yin (olive oil) and yang (vinegar). Season foods first, and only then add fat (usually oil), which acts as a moisturizer.

His book offers plenty of tips, such as avoiding tomatoes canned with an herb, always having anchovies available for seasoning, and using smashed capers to pep up meat.

McFadden suggests serving this mixed salad with a barbecue buffet.

ISRAELI-SPICED TOMATOES, YOGURT SAUCE AND CHICKPEAS

Serves: 6

1 tsp (5 mL) ground sumac* 1/2 tsp (2.5 mL) ground coriander

1/2 tsp (2.5 mL) ground cumin 1/2 tsp (2.5 mL) dried chili flakes

Kosher or coarse salt

1 to 2 garlic cloves, minced 6 small or 3 big ripe tomatoes, cored, thickly sliced

3/4 cup (180 mL) plain yogurt (not Greek)

1 small cucumber, peeled, chopped

2 cups (500 mL) lightly packed basil, mint and flat-leaf parsley, chopped, halved or whole Freshly ground pepper

Hot sauce, such as sriracha

1 cup (250 mL) cooked chickpeas, or 1/2 can (540 mL size), drained, rinsed

1/2 small red onion, thinly sliced 2 tbsp (30 mL) red wine vinegar Extra-virgin olive oil Flatbreads

1. In a small bowl, mix sumac, coriander, cumin, chili flakes, 1 tsp (5 mL) salt and garlic. Spread tomatoes on a baking sheet and sprinkle the seasoning mixture. Let stand for up to one hour.

2. In a medium bowl, stir together the yogurt, cucumber and some of the herbs. Season generously with salt, pepper and a few dashes of hot sauce. Let mixture stand for at least 15 minutes and up to one hour. Taste to make sure sauce has plenty of flavour.

3. In a large bowl, toss the chickpeas, onion, vinegar and the remaining herbs. Season with salt and pepper, adjusting as needed. Add a shot of oil and toss again.

4. Arrange a layer of the tomato slices on a platter and pour any accumulated juices over the tomatoes. Add dollops of the yogurt mixture and top with the chickpea mixture.

5. Serve with freshly grilled flatbreads.