DON’T BE A FISH OUT OF WATER
Get to know the seafood counter with informative cookbook
A readable book of tempting recipes, colourful anecdotes, reports on each seafood and its status, and exceptional photographs, Ship to Shore: Straight Talk from the Seafood Counter is the fish cookbook we have long needed.
John Bil, celebrated in the world of oysters and then as a straight-shooting seafood marketer and restaurateur, answers all our questions, species by species (House of Anansi, $34.95). Top chefs have endorsed this excellent book, which tackles the thorny question of fish-farming (we need it and it’s improving), directs us to shop with our eyes open for freshness rather than questioning the fish monger and shows us how to cook each type.
Bil, who died earlier this year, writes that he credits Montreal’s Joe Beef chefs Fred Morin — who wrote the introduction — and David McMillan with teaching him fish cookery. Photographer Rick O’Brien took pictures of each species and most recipes.
JOHN DORY WITH CAPONATA
Serves: 2
2 to 3 small eggplants, peeled, diced
3 tbsp (45 mL) fine salt 1cup(250mL)oliveoil 1 medium onion, diced 1-2/3 cups (410 mL) canned or bottled tomatoes, or 1 can (19 ounces/540 mL) tomatoes, drained
2/3 cup (160 mL) small green olives, pitted
2 stalks celery, diced
1 cup (250 mL) chopped celery leaves
2/3 cup (160 mL) dry white wine or apple cider vinegar 1/3 cup (80 mL) granulated sugar
Freshly ground pepper
4 John Dory fillets, skin on, patted dry (Substitute plaice, turbot, grouper or halibut) Salt and freshly ground pepper 6tbspplus2tsp(100mL) grapeseed or other high-heat oil 1 lemon, halved
1. Caponata: Preheat oven to 420 F (215 C). In a bowl, toss eggplant with salt and 2/3 cup (160 mL) of the oil. Spread on a baking sheet and roast in preheated oven for 30 to 40 minutes, until soft.
2. Heat remaining 1/3 cup
(80 mL) oil in a medium pot over medium heat and cook onions, stirring occasionally, for 5 to 8 minutes, until soft but not brown.
3. Stir in tomatoes, olives, celery and leaves, wine and sugar. Lower heat and simmer for
15 to 20 minutes, until liquid has reduced slightly and vegetables have softened.
4. Stir in roasted eggplant and simmer 5 minutes more, then remove from heat. Season with pepper. (Mixture will keep for a week, refrigerated covered.)
5. Fish: Sprinkle fillets generously on all sides with salt and pepper. In a large, heavy frying pan over medium-high heat, heat oil until it shimmers and sear fillets, skin-side down, for about 5 minutes.
6. Carefully turn fish and remove pan from heat; pan heat will complete fish cooking.
7. Spoon caponata onto two heated plates and top with fish. Serve with lemon halves.