CONFUSION AT THE FISH COUNTER: HOW TO EAT FISH RESPONSIBLY
Canadians should demand better labelling and information, writes Jenny Weitzman.
It now seems absurd that anyone once believed the ocean was inexhaustible: fish stocks are in dismal shape and scientists say overfishing is a global problem with potentially irreversible consequences to ecosystems and human livelihoods.
Sustainability has become a key driver of seafood consumer choices, according to a 2018 survey by Globescan on behalf of the Marine Stewardship Council.
No longer is a visit to the local fish-and-chips restaurant a simple choice between cod and halibut. Consumers must also weigh geography, catch method and species in their food order. When did eating fish-and-chips get so complicated?
As a researcher who studies sustainable seafood, I also ask: “Which fish should I be eating?”
WHY EAT FISH?
Taste aside, there are numerous health benefits to eating seafood, both for your brain and your body.
Still, many Canadians remain confused or frustrated by varying health claims or unclear messages. They’re concerned about mercury, microplastics and genetically modified foods. (A Health Canada assessment concluded that the Aquadvantage GMO salmon is safe for consumption.)
It’s not surprising that many consumers are confused. The seafood industry is diverse and very different than any other meat industry in Canada.
For the most part, Canadians only eat one species of chicken, cow and pig. But an average grocery store sells many different species of fish and shellfish. Seafood is also a truly global commodity.
While most chicken and beef in North American supermarkets come from Canada and the U.S., fish species are imported from around the world — and come from very different growing conditions.
CHOOSING THE RIGHT FISH
Each consumer is different, so there isn’t one fish that rules them all. Consumers base their decisions on a variety of qualities — health, sustainability, price and origin.
1. HEALTH CLAIMS
Like apples or broccoli, many consumers eat fish because it’s healthy. Fatty fish such as salmon and mackerel are very high in important nutrients and omega-3s. Yet many health benefits are often highly debated, and claims can be confusing. A healthy choice is sometimes obscured by concerns over contaminants such as mercury or the use of antibiotics in aquaculture.
Some consumers, especially pregnant women or young children, may want to avoid larger, long-lived predatory fish, such as swordfish and tuna, that can accumulate high levels of mercury.
In many countries, including Canada and Norway, antibiotic use in aquaculture has decreased substantially in recent years, yet it remains widespread elsewhere.
Some consumers seek organic options because they’re grown without chemicals. In Canada, there are some certified organic options for farmed seafood, including organic mussels.
2. SUSTAINABILITY
With increasing overfishing and declining ocean health, many consumers seek sustainable seafood options. Shellfish such as mussels and oysters are considered to have the lowest environmental impact because they have low energy requirements and don’t need to be fed. In some cases, they can even clean the water where they are raised, potentially helping protect or improve degraded waters.
Eating farmed fish helps reduce reliance on already vulnerable wild-fish stocks. It also has a lower carbon footprint than terrestrial livestock farming. Yet debates about seafood sustainability, especially aquaculture, continue.
Eco-certification labels, such as from the Marine Stewardship and the Aquaculture Stewardship councils, help consumers identify seafood caught or grown in environmentally friendly ways. Depending on where you live, popular fish, including some types of tuna, salmon and halibut, have earned a spot on the “avoid” list of the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch.
3. SUPPORTING LOCAL
In recent years, some Canadians have focused on eating local to reduce their environmental footprint and support nearby producers.
Consumers also need to know that many homegrown favourites are also imported, including Atlantic salmon from Norway or
Chile, or tilapia from China or Indonesia.
While there are many great domestic seafood options, seafood in Canada is surprisingly expensive. Beyond taste, smell and appearance, price is an enduring priority for many Canadians.
Canned fish, such as tuna, is a popular lower-priced option. Fillets of haddock, tilapia and farmed salmon are also affordable. Consumers who seek organic claims and eco-certification labels will pay a premium.
NO EASY FEAT
When it comes to fish, food labels have been unhelpful to consumers. Producers are only required to show the common name of the fish (potentially lumping many different species into a common name like tuna, shrimp or rockfish) and the origin of the packaged or freshfish product.
To complicate matters, the so-called origin of a fish is defined as the place where it was last
“transformed” into a filet or boxed. For example, a fish caught in Canadian waters but sent to China for packaging could say “Product of China.” The origin thus doesn’t necessarily indicate where the fish was caught or farmed.
Recent investigations into fish species and origins by the conservation group Oceana have found that seafood products in Canadian grocery stores and restaurants are often mislabelled.
For example, of the 472 seafood samples tested between 2017 and 2019, 47 per cent were labelled as something else. Red snapper was often substituted with tilapia and wild fish were replaced with farmed fish.
As Canadian consumers, we have a responsibility to demand more information about where and how our fish reach our tables, and encourage labelling requirements and responsible practices. Jenny Weitzman is an interdisciplinary PHD candidate in the marine affairs program at Dalhousie University in Halifax. This article originally appeared online at theconversation. com, an independent source of news and views, from the academic and research community.
A fish caught in Canadian waters but sent to China for packaging could say ‘Product of China.’ The origin thus doesn’t necessarily indicate where the fish was caught or farmed.
Jenny Weitzman, PHD candidate in the marine affairs program, Dalhousie University
Of 472 seafood samples tested between 2017 and 2019, 47 per cent were labelled as something else.