Vancouver Sun

MUSINGS ON MEAT

Vegan ` burgers' puzzle Fralic

- SHELLEY FRALIC shelleyfra­lic@gmail.com

I get it, the whole not wanting to eat anything-with-a-face movement.

Cows are cute. So are lambs. And piglets. And rabbits. And, sometimes, even chickens.

But — and Lord, here comes the lightning bolt — they also taste good.

I eat meat. Almost every day. I fry it, roast it, Panko-coat it, broil it and barbecue it. Beef, pork, chicken and lamb. And seafood. Oh, seafood.

Before you blow up my inbox with outrage and vitriol, yes, I am aware there can be mistreatme­nt in the animal husbandry industry and, yes, I know that meat is murder and Earth's good nature is often jeopardize­d in our quest to set the table.

So, spare me the lectures. And don't bother sending me photos of butchered calves or cooped-up chickens. I get it. I am not a monster. I, too, support the humane treatment of animals that are farmed for our dinner plates.

And I respect anyone who has courage of conviction — whatever that may look like — about the food they put in their bodies, and wouldn't dream of imposing my views on their choices.

Sometimes I wish I didn't eat meat, that I didn't have a lifelong gastronomi­c devotion to animal flesh, a culinary history that charts nearly seven decades of meat consumptio­n and is clearly the legacy of choice and of having been raised in the mid-20th century when Sunday roast dinners were standard, and delicious, fare.

Sometimes, I even question how I can so cavalierly tempt coronary fate, for this is something often pondered by those of us in our late 60s, where one's health and acute sense of mortality are increasing­ly top of mind. But, still, I eat meat. Veganism isn't a new thing, of course. While the word itself is only about as old as the average baby boomer, vegetarian­ism (its less-restrictiv­e cousin) can be traced to ancient cultures.

And right here in Canada, two decades ago, chef Yves Potvin created Yves Veggie Cuisine, a faux meat product offered up in burger, hot dog, deli and sausage form.

What is new, though, is the self-righteous army of the meatless that seems determined to shame the planetary masses, most of whom — you guessed it — eat meat.

Anyway, we can argue about who is more superior another time but, meantime, here's my question: Why do vegans who hit maximum ire at the mere mention of a rare rib-eye want to eat things that aren't meat but look, smell and taste like meat?

Exhibit A: The Impossible Burger.

Great name, and premise — a plant-based “meat” patty that looks, cooks and smells like real hamburger and has the consistenc­y and taste of real hamburger.

The Impossible Burger debuted in the U.S. in 2016 and was a huge hit, showing up on restaurant menus throughout the U.S. and Asia — and, finally, last September in selected Canadian restaurant­s.

Creative chefs have gone all Wolfgang Puck on the trend, even incorporat­ing it on charcuteri­e menus.

And when you're riding an old wave to new heights, as Impossible Burger now is, you have to be clever. Which is why the Impossible Foods company recently released a fake meat patty that — wait for it — bleeds.

Just. Like. Real. Hamburger. It is with this developmen­t that my aging protein-fuelled brain has a bone to pick. (Sorry.) Because, dear vegans, if you hate meat — and feel the need to publicly excoriate those who farm meat, sell meat, cook meat and eat meat — why, oh why, do you want to eat something that is meant to replicate real meat? That bleeds like real meat? When I ask this question of vegans, who are otherwise rather lovely and mostly tolerant of an old carnivore set in her ways, there are usually two eye-rolling answers: One, sometimes it's just easier to blend into a meat-eating world. Two, they used to eat meat and, dare we say, miss it.

I don't get it. Tofurky your heart out, but maybe pick a lane.

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 ?? ROBYN BECK/AFP/ GETTY IMAGES ?? What is the point of eating a vegan “burger” that tastes like the real thing? Shelley Fralic ponders that question.
ROBYN BECK/AFP/ GETTY IMAGES What is the point of eating a vegan “burger” that tastes like the real thing? Shelley Fralic ponders that question.
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