Vancouver Sun

`ULTIMATE COMFORT FOOD'

Pair Hainanese chicken with Pinot Noir

- ANTHONY GISMONDI

This past year has been a roller-coaster ride for consumers and producers across B.C., thanks to COVID-19. Many have fought for changes to help the local industry, be it producers, distributo­rs, retailers or restaurant­s, but a glance at wine prices would suggest the burden of paying the freight remains with consumers.

The coronaviru­s pandemic has brought about several changes to our archaic liquor laws, including allowing restaurant­s to sell wine to takeout customers and having them delivered by third-party delivery services. It may be life-saving for restaurant­s, but make no mistake, it is consumers who are again being asked to pay more for their wine. Simultaneo­usly, provincial and federal government­s pocket more tax by collecting the 10 per cent PST and five per cent GST tax on a significan­tly higher restaurant price compared to already inflated retail prices in monopoly stores. It's just another example of why tinkering with regulation­s founded 100 years ago only makes the mess messier.

There is only one solution — be a smarter wine buyer in 2021 and 2022 and force the sellers to pay attention to your wants and needs, and we can help with that. Today we unearth a dozen top value picks to kick off the new year to share with you, although unfortunat­ely, they are not the tip of the iceberg. Bargain wines you can drink (there is lots of junk out there) have become increasing­ly hard to find in B.C., and that isn't going to change anytime soon. You can use this list as a baseline for quality and price, although the latter is usually due to discountin­g or in-store sales.

Michel Chapoutier is one of the biggest names in the Rhone and he is gifting you two wines: M. Chapoutier Les Vignes de Bilahaut Rouge and M. Chapoutier Les Vignes de Bila-haut Blanc, both selling for $17.99. The red is a Syrah, Grenache and Carignan blend; the white is a mix of Grenache Blanc, Roussanne, Marsanne and Macabeu. Buy them both you won't be disappoint­ed.

From Argentina, the Susana Balbo Crios Malbec ($15.97) offers all you could want in a ready to drink red that works with beef tacos, most grilled beef recipes, cheese and chocolate.

An odd-couple white pairing could be the Monograph by Gaia Assyrtiko ($17.99) from Greece. It's a super fresh, sea salt and mineral affair that should be a hit with seafood lovers and vegetarian­s.

Portugal is a good place to look for value. Look for Planalto Vinho Branca ($11.99), a blend of indigenous white grapes that's a perfect match with takeout barbecue chicken. A bargain red pick would be the Pedra Cancela Dão Selecção do Enólogo ($17.99), a mix of Touriga Nacional, Alfrochier­o and Tinta Roriz full of floral, wild cherry fruit that's best with hamburgers, beef stir-fries and meatballs.

Italian reds can be comforting and, in some areas, affordable. A favourite pizza will work with the Fontella Chianti ($14.99), a soft Tuscan red that delivers authentici­ty for the price or the slightly richer Luccarelli Negroamaro ($15.99) and its ripe, earthy, Puglian plummy fruit. Bolognese anyone?

Australia has quietly been making strides in reorganizi­ng its vineyards and grapes to prepare for the future. We like the Yalumba Organic Shiraz at $16.99 and its smoky, peppery, fruity flavours. South Africa thrives under $20 in B.C., but one of the best is the Spier Chenin Blanc Signature Collection ($13.99), a slightly skinnier, fresher style of Chenin Blanc that's less weighty and oily. Seafood works here, vegan dishes and a lot of greasy takeout.

Finally, from B.C., where wines under $20 are super scarce, we recommend the Gehringer Riesling listed at $13.99, which might be the same price it sold for when it first came to market in 1985. Our red pick, even harder to find at this price point, is Church and State Lost Inhibition­s Red ($17.99), a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot.

Pandemic or no pandemic wine prices are heavily stacked in everyone's favour except yours, so stay sharp and get educated as much as you can, and if you are too busy, just leave it to us.

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 ?? DARREN CHUANG ?? Keep it local by pairing chef Justin Cheung's Hainanese chicken rice with a Pinot Noir from the Okanagan Valley.
DARREN CHUANG Keep it local by pairing chef Justin Cheung's Hainanese chicken rice with a Pinot Noir from the Okanagan Valley.
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